Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ran my car dry today,

stupid I know, but I have been so flat out with work that I have missed filling up for a few days. :)

Anyway, I was leaving work and she sputtered to a halt. I grabbed a gerry can and the work truck and got $20 of juice and gave her a little drink.

the fuel pump sounded ok to begin with, the familiar whirr to pressurise the line but she was spluttering and stalling, then the pump was kinda sounding different, much quieter.

I couldent get her running so I pushed it into my factory and drove the work truck home.

Is it likely that I have stuffed the pump? Is it common that if you run your car dry the pump will sh!t itself?

The car is soon to go into MPC for cam gears and PFC + tune, (if Paul ever gets the PFC to me...! )

So I spose I can get Lee at MPC to fit a bosh 044 for me while he is at it, or is there a better option? or do I need to do a special little dance to get the stock pump to prime?

cheers for any assistance

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/164107-i-think-my-fuel-pump-is-munted/
Share on other sites

Well is the stock one in there now?

If so i'd replace it anyway, sounds like your going to chase power (using ECU etc) so good timing.

The pump might be blocked a little. Its really hard to know without pulling it out

Well is the stock one in there now?

If so i'd replace it anyway, sounds like your going to chase power (using ECU etc) so good timing.

The pump might be blocked a little. Its really hard to know without pulling it out

yeah its still in.

this car is my company vehicle so all work is pimped from the buisness so I 'aint pulling it out myself :)

I do pay aroune %20 of all the stuff that gets done to it so along with the PFC, cam gears, tune etc it still adds up to a fair whack especially considering my insurance and rego is due..

I spose if my PFC gets here soon (waiting 4 weeks so far grrr...) I will get a tow truck to take it to my tuner (which will be a very sad sight indeed)

so considering my target output with the mods going on it will be 240-250awkw a bosch 044 will cover this tune and when I fit injectors and some bigger turbos for 280+awkw later on?

and whats the go with the walbro pumps? I have heard some differing reports about them..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...