Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Reason why i ask is because ive got one on my R33 and i recorded a 13.02 & 13.00 and everyone is telling me that my 33 cant do those kinda times and that it must be totally out.

Ive checked the speedo on the RSM and it seems fine. the speedo on the dash is wrong but the RSM is right.

Are they 100% acurate? or just total garbage and im really doing 14's or something ?

It even said 4.77 0-100 on a good launch.....

I have the older Apexi one, not the Blue screened one...

anyone have one of these and recorded it while at the strip to compare times ???

anyone have any ideas how to make sure they are accurate? (i dont have a drag strip available where i live)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/16467-rsm-are-they-acurate/
Share on other sites

does yours have g-force sensor or just use wheel speed? With wheel speed only, anytime your wheels are spinning its inaccurate - think of how quickly the wheels can cover 400 m if they spinning, and how much less distance you'll actually have covered.

I used to have an AP22 which uses g-forcs to calcualte accurate figure. G-tech is similar, and I understand there is an add-on available for RSM to do the same.

They're not that accurate unless you get the G sensor, and still yet is a little off. It's not as good as going to the track and getting time slips there. That's where you can brag about your times and back it up solid.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...