Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help With Rb30det

_Sawyer_

By _Sawyer_,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

_Sawyer_ Community Regular

_Sawyer_

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys, Ive recently put a twincam rb30 into my vl and i have a few teething problems from the word go. the engine starts and idles great, revs fine etc. I had the CAS set completly clockwise (which i believe is the ignition fully retarded) and it ran ok. it would'nt make any power put still pulled nicely enough to clock up a few K's untill i get it tuned. the motor would sometimes cough n splutter put i thought it was lack of tuning. Today i thought Id advance the timing so i moved the cas about halfway. it makes allot more power but the coughing and spluttering is 10 time worse and allot more violent. would something be wrong with a sensor like the afm or cas or the coil packs etc?????

The motor specds are as follows.

Rb30 block rebuilt to Na spec for 8.2 C.P ratio

VCT Rb25 Head

standard r33 ecu, turbo, manifolds, injectors, coil packs and N/A fuel pumps

Im taking it to get looked at soon but i was wondering if any1 else has had this problem. Thanks

Edited by _Sawyer_
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165417-need-help-with-rb30det/
Share on other sites
James_03 Mentor

James_03

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ok a couple of things, first check the timing is good, sounds like it may be out 1-2 on the exhaust or intake timing. Then check that the VVT solenoid has been wired up, this is often not wired up, it is probably not causing this issue but check it anyway, its 12v live is also shared with the idle control valve and the o2 heater, should show 12v live with ign on ground it against the car. Check the gap on your plugs and for any cracks in the packs.

Also check that the block has been modified to suit the r33 exhaust manifold, if you have not done this then the head will not sit flush on the block and it may show symptoms like this.

and then lastly switch the ECU over into diagnostic mode and check to see if it spits back any error codes. Should show code 55 for all sensors OK. Then probably wouldn't harm to go to mode 2 or whatever it is and check the afr's when it breaks down.

The led is on for lean off for rich, if its stays on either of these when breaking down then check your fuel system accordingly. Thats for single led ECU's

Edit: wait a minute your not still using the stock vl fuel pump are you?

Edited by James_03
_Sawyer_ Community Regular

_Sawyer_

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
Ok a couple of things, first check the timing is good, sounds like it may be out 1-2 on the exhaust or intake timing. Then check that the VVT solenoid has been wired up, this is often not wired up, it is probably not causing this issue but check it anyway, its 12v live is also shared with the idle control valve and the o2 heater, should show 12v live with ign on ground it against the car. Check the gap on your plugs and for any cracks in the packs.

Also check that the block has been modified to suit the r33 exhaust manifold, if you have not done this then the head will not sit flush on the block and it may show symptoms like this.

and then lastly switch the ECU over into diagnostic mode and check to see if it spits back any error codes. Should show code 55 for all sensors OK. Then probably wouldn't harm to go to mode 2 or whatever it is and check the afr's when it breaks down.

The led is on for lean off for rich, if its stays on either of these when breaking down then check your fuel system accordingly. Thats for single led ECU's

Edit: wait a minute your not still using the stock vl fuel pump are you?

Defiantly not the exhaust hittin with the block, ill do a check on the ecu soon. I reckon it's the packs because its a real tempromental problem, it will be great one second then shit the next, and ya i am using the stock fuel pumps. is that likely to be the problem? thanks

Edited by _Sawyer_
_Sawyer_ Community Regular

_Sawyer_

Posted
  • Author
Posted
yeh I probably wouldn't recommend running a 20 year old n/a fuel pump.

well it dosent have any spark now so it looks like the CAS ot the ignitor has packed up. makes sense because when the motor missed it seemed to do it across all cylinders and jerk violently, not just a few and slowly stall the engine

Adriano Grand Master

Adriano

Posted
Posted
well it dosent have any spark now so it looks like the CAS ot the ignitor has packed up. makes sense because when the motor missed it seemed to do it across all cylinders and jerk violently, not just a few and slowly stall the engine

More than likely the cas, or a wiring issue, the igniter has 6 individual circuits inside so its unlikely they would all fail.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • TurboTapin
      boost source Size Garrett gt28 gen2

      By TurboTapin 路 Posted

      You just need to remove the compressor housing, not the entire turbo. I would not be drilling and tapping anything with the housing still on anyways. 
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      So, I put my boat on a boat. First of all, I'm going to come out and say it. Why is Tasmania not considered a holy goal, an apex that all road-legal modified cars go to, to experience? This place is an absolute wonderland of titanic proportions. If people are already getting club runs for once in a lifetime 30 person cruises to Tassy then I've never seemed to see it. It is like someone replaced the entire place with an idyllic wonderland for cars, and all of the people living there with paid actors who are kind, humble, and friendly. Dear god. After doing a lap of almost all of the place I've found that it's a great way to find out all of the little things that the car isn't doing quite right and a great way to figure it all out. All in all, I drove for 4 hours a day for a week and nothing broke. I didn't even need to open the engine bay. This is by all means a great success, but it has left me with a list of things to potentially address. I also now have a 3D printed wheel fitment tool which annoyingly hasn't got any threads in it to actually assemble it. I might be able to tape it together to check the sizing I actually want to use, but it'll likely involving pulling the shocks out to properly measure travel at least at the front, and probably raise the car while I'm at it, at least in the rear. I scraped on quite a few things and I'm not sure how else to go about it. I was taking anything with a bump at what felt like 89 degree angles. And address those 10 other tasks. And wash the car. God damn it is dirty. And somehow, the weather was perfect the entire time - And because I was on the top of Mt Wellington it turns out it was very much about to freeze up there. I did something I typically never do and took some photos up there in what must have been -10 and the foggy felt like suspended ice, rather than mere fog. If you own a car in Australia, you owe it to yourself to do it.
    • QB6SAGR
      Battle of the broken skylines

      By QB6SAGR 路 Posted

      Damn that was hilarious, and a bit embarrassing for skylines in general 馃槀 vintage car life ey. That R33 really stomped. Pretty entertaining stuff
    • cosline
      R32 gtr transmission strength, billet plate

      By cosline 路 Posted

      Hi, I have a r32 gtr transmission. Does any of you guys have an idea how much power it will hold with the billet center plate and stock gearset? At what power level and use did yours brake with or without billet plate? Thanks, Oystein Lovik
    • Rezz
      Spotted on the street....

      By Rezz 路 Posted

      Saw this replica police car based on a Mitsubishi Starion XX parked next to a 'police box' (it's literally a box) in Hirohata, Himeji City in Hyogo prefecture the other day. It's owned by Morii-san who is a local Mitsubishi Starion enthusiast. According to a local radio station blog post, he always wanted to make a police car himself based on ones he saw in his favourite Manga comics.  As it's illegal to modify a car to look like a police car and drive on the road, Morii-san tried many times to get permission from Aboshi police station headquarters nearby. They refused initially by after they got tired of that they granted him permission. However, the car can only be displayed on private property and obviously can't be registered as long as the police livery is present. The car was completed at a cost of 1.5 million yen (US$ 10,000) in addition to the car cost. A location was chosen outside Hirohata Police box where the car can easily been seen from the street. Morii-san has two other Starion road cars, both widebody GSR-VRs.
脳
脳
  • Create New...