Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey there guys, I've read several posts here on how to get rid of the annoying beeping when you reverse, alot of it talks about getting rid of the black box or a speaking looking thing near the left side of the steering wheel.

I tried getting to the source of the beep today for 45 mins, back arched the other way and with my head reading on de brake pedal, i CAN"T locate de source, I put my ear to where the sound might come from. Mine's a R34 and the sound sounds like it's coming from the middle to right of the steering wheel.

I've attached some pictures of the underside of the area that i'm pointing to.

could someone please point out the black box or the speaker looking thing or if it's not accurately describing it, the source of the sound..

thank you..

post-32794-1177231552.jpg

post-32794-1177231566.jpg

post-32794-1177231583.jpg

post-32794-1177231596.jpg

post-32794-1177231621.jpg

post-32794-1177231631.jpg

post-32794-1177231641.jpg

post-32794-1177231665.jpg

post-32794-1177231677.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/165601-reverse-beep-for-r34/
Share on other sites

  • 6 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
    • I don't know it is due to that. It could just be due to load on track being more than a dyno. But it would be nice to rule it out. We're talking a fraction of a second of pulling ~1 degree of timing. So it's not a lot, but I'd rather it be 0... Thicker oil isn't really a "bandaid" if it's oil that is going to run at 125C, is it? It will be thicker at 100 and thus at 125, where the 40 weight may not be as thick as one may like for that use. I already have a big pump that has been ported. They (They in this instance being the guy that built my heads) port them so they flow more at lower RPM but have a bypass spring that I believe is ~70psi. I have seen 70psi of oil pressure up top in the past, before I knew I had this leak. I have a 25 row oil cooler that takes up all the space in the driver side guard. It is interesting that GM themselves recommend 0-30 oil for their Vette applications. Unless you take it to the track where the official word is to put 20-50w oil in there, then take that back out after your track day is done and return to 0-30.
    • Nice, looks great. Nice work getting the factory parts also. Never know when you'll need them.
    • Thanks @jtha7 I will have a look around tomorrow but it is a prick of a spot. These are some photos i tried taking 
×
×
  • Create New...