Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

which picture is correct and which is false or have i mis interpreted the pictures?????

these 2 pictures show the pipes going to different places

which diagram is correct???

i have specified it in the pictures please can sumbody tell me whether i join the afm hose to the actuator hose with a t piece then put it onto the 2nd o 1st nipple of the solenoid or do i put the intercooler hose to the wastegate actuator hose and join in onto which nipple

???

post-29824-1177497790.jpg

post-29824-1177497819.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166048-r33-solenoid-setup/
Share on other sites

Ditch the second pic... not sure whats' happening there.

The 1st is showing the setup for a boost controller-bleeder type which are fine to use.

Is that what you want to do?

If you want the standard setup, read what's written by the original guy, and look at his arrows.

If you want a bleeder, do what he has shown, as you can see, the solenoid is NO LONGER needed and the screw is just there to stop crap getting in.....the bleeder now does the job off the solenoid.

sydney kid made the second pic

and another bloke i forgot made the 1st pic ( no offence to da pic 1 bloke )

i have hooked it up the way it is shown in the 1st pic

with the inntercooler pipe going to the actuator and the middle afm hose to the other nipple

i used the first pic ...

at least its answered..

man somebody should realli delete it

WAIT I AM USING IT FOR A JAYCAR BOOST CONROL SETUP..

there is onli one way a boost solenoid works so this confuses me even more now

Edited by Zas)-(

that first pic is mine. i had the stock solenoid set up before going with the turbotech bc.

whatever i've written there (minus the notes on the white background) is exactly how it goes from stock to bleed valve. (and vice versa)

Edited by Munkyb0y
that first pic is mine. i had the stock solenoid set up before going with the turbotech bc.

whatever i've written there (minus the notes on the white background) is exactly how it goes from stock to bleed valve. (and vice versa)

yeah i dun understand... the solenoid can onli work one way as read in articles before

so that means if sydney kids jaycar boost controller worked on his setup then his is correct but then yours etup ppl use and it works too??? huh???

It's 2 pics for 2 setups.

If using a bleeder boost controller, the 1st pic is right.

If you're going to use the JAYCAR electronic kit, i think it's the second pic now.

SyndeyKid is the master of this kit nd there's a thread that goes for 20+pages somewhere.

I'd follow his advise to the T

Good luck

The first picture is right. This alows the wastegate to recieve pressure when the turbotech lets go. Be carefull with your calibration they are sensitive. Make sure you do it up nice and firm as well. You dont need the bolt the solenoid should be in the normally closed position if you pull the plug. And dont loose the tee piece like i did either. happy boosting.

hmm this confuses me alot....

because im using something electronic yet so many ppl lean towards the 1st pic

tho the 2nd pic is used for the iebc.. i mite take the 2nd pic route even tho i swear somebody said there is one way to solenoid works and n oother way it could work

i will re read the 22 pages .... here i go again lol

thanks to everybody that replied

ur input means alot to an amatuer who wants to have some good knowledge of cars

cheers

Edited by Zas)-(

The solenoid is used 2 different ways, it depends on the setup.

Couple of things....

1) 1st pic, the solenoid isn't used AT ALL and could be ripped out and chucked and that setup will still work as the manual-bleeder is doing the work.

2) In the standard R33 setup, the boost solenoid acts as a bleeder and bleeds off a bit off pressure when revs go over 4500 (i think). It bleeds off 2psi fooling the wastgate actuator to go from 5psi to 7psi. Make sense?..but doesn't mean it can't be used another way.

3) If you ARE using the Jaycar electronic setup, DON'T use the 1st pic. That's a definate. The Jaycar DOES use the standard solenoid as the boost controller and it isn't even hooked up in the first pic...That should be pretty obvious.

I'd be leaning towrds the second pic but I don't understand how the Jaycar setup works and it is a bit fifferent from the Profec's and HKS's from what i can remember.

Yes, re-read the 22pages or ask SydneyKid via PM

i've asked him too many dumb questions lol im on my own for now.

i'll have to keep reading and slowly take my time to understand and do it

yeah but it shows how it will be it will be hooked up in the 1st pic

it was just diff from the second one

best bet is to use sydney kids idea since his done it before....

thanks mate for the advice...

i hope i can tune n install this device properly this way i can start making the kits n hooking it up to all my mates cars ahahah.. or it mite just F*k up there ecus ...

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...