Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

which picture is correct and which is false or have i mis interpreted the pictures?????

these 2 pictures show the pipes going to different places

which diagram is correct???

i have specified it in the pictures please can sumbody tell me whether i join the afm hose to the actuator hose with a t piece then put it onto the 2nd o 1st nipple of the solenoid or do i put the intercooler hose to the wastegate actuator hose and join in onto which nipple

???

post-29824-1177497790.jpg

post-29824-1177497819.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166048-r33-solenoid-setup/
Share on other sites

Ditch the second pic... not sure whats' happening there.

The 1st is showing the setup for a boost controller-bleeder type which are fine to use.

Is that what you want to do?

If you want the standard setup, read what's written by the original guy, and look at his arrows.

If you want a bleeder, do what he has shown, as you can see, the solenoid is NO LONGER needed and the screw is just there to stop crap getting in.....the bleeder now does the job off the solenoid.

sydney kid made the second pic

and another bloke i forgot made the 1st pic ( no offence to da pic 1 bloke )

i have hooked it up the way it is shown in the 1st pic

with the inntercooler pipe going to the actuator and the middle afm hose to the other nipple

i used the first pic ...

at least its answered..

man somebody should realli delete it

WAIT I AM USING IT FOR A JAYCAR BOOST CONROL SETUP..

there is onli one way a boost solenoid works so this confuses me even more now

Edited by Zas)-(

that first pic is mine. i had the stock solenoid set up before going with the turbotech bc.

whatever i've written there (minus the notes on the white background) is exactly how it goes from stock to bleed valve. (and vice versa)

Edited by Munkyb0y
that first pic is mine. i had the stock solenoid set up before going with the turbotech bc.

whatever i've written there (minus the notes on the white background) is exactly how it goes from stock to bleed valve. (and vice versa)

yeah i dun understand... the solenoid can onli work one way as read in articles before

so that means if sydney kids jaycar boost controller worked on his setup then his is correct but then yours etup ppl use and it works too??? huh???

It's 2 pics for 2 setups.

If using a bleeder boost controller, the 1st pic is right.

If you're going to use the JAYCAR electronic kit, i think it's the second pic now.

SyndeyKid is the master of this kit nd there's a thread that goes for 20+pages somewhere.

I'd follow his advise to the T

Good luck

The first picture is right. This alows the wastegate to recieve pressure when the turbotech lets go. Be carefull with your calibration they are sensitive. Make sure you do it up nice and firm as well. You dont need the bolt the solenoid should be in the normally closed position if you pull the plug. And dont loose the tee piece like i did either. happy boosting.

hmm this confuses me alot....

because im using something electronic yet so many ppl lean towards the 1st pic

tho the 2nd pic is used for the iebc.. i mite take the 2nd pic route even tho i swear somebody said there is one way to solenoid works and n oother way it could work

i will re read the 22 pages .... here i go again lol

thanks to everybody that replied

ur input means alot to an amatuer who wants to have some good knowledge of cars

cheers

Edited by Zas)-(

The solenoid is used 2 different ways, it depends on the setup.

Couple of things....

1) 1st pic, the solenoid isn't used AT ALL and could be ripped out and chucked and that setup will still work as the manual-bleeder is doing the work.

2) In the standard R33 setup, the boost solenoid acts as a bleeder and bleeds off a bit off pressure when revs go over 4500 (i think). It bleeds off 2psi fooling the wastgate actuator to go from 5psi to 7psi. Make sense?..but doesn't mean it can't be used another way.

3) If you ARE using the Jaycar electronic setup, DON'T use the 1st pic. That's a definate. The Jaycar DOES use the standard solenoid as the boost controller and it isn't even hooked up in the first pic...That should be pretty obvious.

I'd be leaning towrds the second pic but I don't understand how the Jaycar setup works and it is a bit fifferent from the Profec's and HKS's from what i can remember.

Yes, re-read the 22pages or ask SydneyKid via PM

i've asked him too many dumb questions lol im on my own for now.

i'll have to keep reading and slowly take my time to understand and do it

yeah but it shows how it will be it will be hooked up in the 1st pic

it was just diff from the second one

best bet is to use sydney kids idea since his done it before....

thanks mate for the advice...

i hope i can tune n install this device properly this way i can start making the kits n hooking it up to all my mates cars ahahah.. or it mite just F*k up there ecus ...

cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...