Jump to content
SAU Community

Need Help With Vacum Hose On My Hybrid Intercooler Install

RED033

By RED033,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

RED033 Apprentice

RED033

Posted
Posted

Hey just became a member on this site and only just started 2 learn about modes on my car . i just put a hybrid intercooler in looks great but i dont no were 2 put one end of the new hose i got with kit can any1 help

RED033 Apprentice

RED033

Posted
  • Author
Posted

this is wot the instructions say. For the yellow vacum hose just T piece one side of the yellow hose from the thicker vacum hose comining out of intake manifold that part i understand just dont no where 2 put other end really pissing me off

RED033 Apprentice

RED033

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)
whats the yellow hose hooked upto underneath that pipe, you have the stock boost soleniod hooked upto the wastegate still???????

yeah stock soleniod is hooked up 2 the waste gate and and the end isint hooked up 2 any thing just put it there cause i no where that end goes i think the other end goes to the soleniod but if so wot pipe do i take off and wot do i do with it if take 1 off

Edited by RED033
RED033 Apprentice

RED033

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

takin a pic so you can see how its hocked up its all still stock i think. lol maybe i should just leave the yellow hose off . but if i do run it 2 the wastegate then wot do i do with pipe i take off watsegate

Edited by RED033
sinistaGTR Grand Master

sinistaGTR

Posted
Posted

ok leave that on, you dont need the yellow line leave it off all together make sure no vac lines are left off. What the yellow one in the kit is for is to run from your cooler pipe to the wastegate or boost controller.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...