Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi I have a R33 gtst. My car no matter if its hot or cold will not idle. This is what it does car starts easy, revs to 1900 rpm,drops to 1500, pause, then to 1000 for a sec then dies. Stalls all the time. Runs perfect above 1500 rpm.

I have a HKS Sq BOV.

I have tried so far:

Cleaning Acc valve and all that muck out of the back of the plenum

Repacing fuel filter

setting the TPS

Turning Idle screw in and out with the TPS disconected ( For some reson the IDle does not change 1 bit weather i turn it in or out)

Cleaning out the AFM

Located where the Ecu idle screw should be, to find the isnt 1 on it

checked for leaks

what have i missed? Can someone help me out please!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/166540-r33-idle-problem-need-some-help/
Share on other sites

1. Go back to your stock bov

2. Get a plumb back bov

3. Get a tune

your atmo bov will be releasing a lot of air into the atmosphere, yet your air flow comp will read it as being in the system, so the fuel will be added as if there is that amount of air in there... but its not... any of the 3 will fix this problem... normally an atmo bov wont cause it to completely die at idle, it does create idling and gear changing problems, but not normall this bad... which is why i said get a tune..

anyway, hope one of those fixes it for you :P

the bov i have i think is a plub bak though ( is that where a vacuum line sucks the valve open cuse its one of those) I dunno.

u know any tuning garages on the sunny coast?

thanks

a hks ssqv bov is atmo unless you have the recirc kit. is the plumback line blocked off?

Had the same problem...was running a HKS bov..and the car wont idle properly..only to find theres a slight vacuum leak from the HKS BOV as its a Atmo BOV..i put the stock BOV back and plumb it back into my intake pipe..problem gone..like wat DRD OFF said..the afm is gettin weird reading cos of the atmo BOV..

Had the same problem...was running a HKS bov..and the car wont idle properly..only to find theres a slight vacuum leak from the HKS BOV as its a Atmo BOV..i put the stock BOV back and plumb it back into my intake pipe..problem gone..like wat DRD OFF said..the afm is gettin weird reading cos of the atmo BOV..

man what the hell is drd off? :wave:

as for the original poster, you might want to save up some money and get a tune, you will notice that your car will run a shit load better... most well tuned skylines with atmo bovs wont actually stall, but if yours is, its a bit under the weather and could use a check up :wave:

i think you will like the change :unsure:

  • 2 years later...

please try an alternate stock ECU

my old ECU was fried and i drove a car like this for 6 months lol - not fun looking like a tool revving your car at every set of lights.

swap it out and see if you know someone with an stock ECU'd r33

hi guys

May not be the problem but i found info in regards to small cracks/holes in the little vacuum line on the turbo

Also my car played up bad one day turned out the boost/vacuum line to my gauge was leaking a little causing same problems as listed above

I would go round the engine bay with a can of carby clean or start ya basterd and see if there is any leaks else were i know you said you checked for leaks but it dose'nt take much to create a problem

happy leak hunting

Hi I have a R33 gtst. My car no matter if its hot or cold will not idle. This is what it does car starts easy, revs to 1900 rpm,drops to 1500, pause, then to 1000 for a sec then dies. Stalls all the time. Runs perfect above 1500 rpm.

I have a HKS Sq BOV.

I have tried so far:

Cleaning Acc valve and all that muck out of the back of the plenum

Repacing fuel filter

setting the TPS

Turning Idle screw in and out with the TPS disconected ( For some reson the IDle does not change 1 bit weather i turn it in or out)

Cleaning out the AFM

Located where the Ecu idle screw should be, to find the isnt 1 on it

checked for leaks

what have i missed? Can someone help me out please!

Make sure your fuel pump dropping resistor is plugged in. If any work has been done on the aerial recently it is possible the resistor plug has been unplugged. It is located in the passenger side rear cavity behind the wheel arch (where the jack is located). It is a rectangular silver item with a 2 pin plug.

Cheers

Ben

You sorta can and you sorta can't. Do some research on Nistune.

Are you running an after market plumb back BOV? What else is installed?

i've also got a hdi GT spec hybrid intercooler, aftermarket coilpacks, a boost controller (only running 10 pound) and a HKS cat back exaughst system.. apart from that i'm stock.. i've checked for leaky hoses and i've tried a different ECU and i've replaced my air flow sensor..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Waaay ahead of ya....(evil laugh!!) Will show the fitment and spec details later when it isnt as rainy !
    • Thanks Dose.....    I appreciate it!!
    • I'll probably be putting the shit box back on the dyno again soon, I want to dial in the closed loop boost control properly. I'll have a camera facing the car/motor for fun too. Just note, there are essentially 3x 10AN inlets going into the catch can and 1x going back to the intake pipe. Most of the time the catch can "return" to the sump actually is the crank case breather, pushing air out.
    • I have the R3C with a Nismo slave and by no means does it behave like a stocker, it ain’t THAT bad. On take off just give a bit more throttle than you would say a coppermix and it’s fine. It will not slip though.   
    • Okay. Final round of testing done. Got a friend to hook up a fancy scanner to the car and we also ran some compression and leakdown tests, she is healthy.  The MAF was definitely the culprit. So for future reference anyone with similar issues that find this thread. I suggest the following steps, in order of affordability:   Check your spark plugs for any fouling, replace plugs if they are bad or re adjust the gaps making it narrower (0.8mm would be good). Check every coil's resistance with a multimeter. It can be done by probing the IB and G pins on the coil pack. Resistance should be around 1.4 (+/- 0.1) Ohms Check the MAF. If you have Nissan connect or a good scanner with the 14 adapter it should allow you to see the voltage on the MAF reading should be around 1.1 - 1.2V when car is idling. But if you don't, buy a new MAF from Amazon and test, then return it. (For instance, I got a Chinese one for $40 that was reporting 1.3v on idle). If you still have scanner, you can run tests on the injectors to see if they are working, just remember to unplug the fuel pump fuse/relay and have no pressure on the line. Then listen for the noises that the injectors make. Clean/replace injectors as needed. Once you find the issue and fix, order thousands of dollars worth of OEM parts to refresh unrelated things (Optional)   PS: Thanks to the absolute legends of this forum for the responses and help to someone that went a bit over their head. (me)
×
×
  • Create New...