Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Guys,

Im going traveling OS very soon and need to sell ASAP

PM/Email for high res pics if seriously interested

For sale: 1999 R34 GTT

Asking price: $23500

Kilometer’s: 60xxx

Transmission: Manual transmission

Rego: 11 months left !

Engine type: RB25DET NEO

Location: Sydney (5 minutes from Bondi )

Color: Black

Modifications: Basically stock, Catback, Pod filter and turbo timer

Not a cent to spend

I have recently had my license cancelled by the RTA for 12 months and would love to keep my car buy unfortunately its not feasible to do so. I am also traveling overseas soon and need to sell the car ASAP

I have recently spent $2000 on servicing the car and have had a new Excedy heavy duty clutch installed, New brake pads, full service including NGK iridium spark plugs and all fluids etc changed

This car is completely stock besides a cat-back HKS exhaust and a brand new Apexi pod filter

Car is in excellent condition and has not skipped a beat since I have owned it. Crystal clear xenon headlights (Not yellow like some). I have always used minimum 98 octane fuel in it

Contact details:

Contact me here – PM etc

Mobile: 0404 159 281

Email: [email protected]

Any tests welcome.

All serious offers considered

Cheers James

Edited by Beauie

Hey guys,

Unfortunately i dont have a license anymore so trades are out of the question (If i had my license i would be keeping it)

I will get you guys some pics ASAP

Lots of interest... Keep the PMs coming :P

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If you take the top half of the intake off you can unbolt the flap off the shaft and leave the shaft in there blocking the hole. Then you can remove the little vacuum canister off from under the manifold and get a spare vacuum line to run to the ECU. I can take some photos of it later. Probably best to get the vacuum source to the ECU sorted first though. Mine all worked mint with the base map from the GTT an I've pretty much let the closed loop sort the fueling and took 1 degree out of the whole timing map.
    • This IS something you also have to configure in Haltech (or at least I did in the past when going from onboard-to-ECU map sensor and an external MAP sensor in haltech land).
    • I'm hoping it's something as simple as the ECU is looking for an external MAP sensor, but he is trying to use the onboard MAP sensor.
    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
×
×
  • Create New...