Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a 1996 R33 Series 2 GTS-T with fmic, full exhast, k&n pod, turbosmart bov, manual boost controller approx 10psi, also run on 98 octane which was running great until I got in it tonight and revved it to 1grand before releasing my clutch as normal and my car immediately started pinging loudly. It sounds like two metal objects banging together and doesn't stop until idling.

Before I continue, my car does suffers from a minor stalling issue where the car drops rev's dramatically when I put my clutch in and either dies or bounces back off 0rpm.... (this is only approx once a week, not a very frequent occurrence, I drive my car approx 75kms a day). My car also has a very low idle approx 600rpm.

I have already put octane booster in the fuel in case I had accidentally put in regular fuel however this did not make a difference.

I have left my car for 5 hours in a garage (so not exposed to the rain as I has been raining all day) thinking that possibly the pod or anything had gotten wet and caused it??? Hoping the best I start my car up and it immediately started pinning just above idle.

Any suggestions???????

I am completely stumped!!!!

Please help!!!!!!!!!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167497-serious-pinging-at-1000rpm/
Share on other sites

never heard a car ping at idle. your ignition timing would have to be spastically off for that to be the case.

my car does tick quite noticeably at idle, and if i crack the throttle open and give it another 350rpm then the ticking stops. i think it's just the normal injectors or one of the idle control circuits at work. not worried about it.

Maybe check if all your intercooler pipes are tight aswell if your suffering from stalling issues. Could be a leak somewhere. I remember one of my clamps went loose after a quick squirt and the car started to drop revs with the clutch in.

Thanks for your contribution guys! Really has ruled out a lot of possibilities for me!

Haven't solved the problem as of yet however if I can't figure it out for myself after another 24 hours I will go take it to a mechanic!

Any type of mechanic??? Should I just have it taken to Nissan or does it not really matter??? (I've never taken my skyline to a mechanic, I service mine myself every 5000kms)

I really don't want to drive it, my partner can hear the noise coming out of the exhaust as well as the engine! Really worried driving will just make it worse!!!

Have you checked your oil level? I know it sounds silly but that tapping sound will be either low oil. Maybe the tappets? if your car has gone a few k's or either your oil is really dirty and just taking its sweet time to lubricate the engine.

Injector sounds are no-where near as loud as tappets/low oil tapping and the fact that the tapping starts at 1'000rpm i'd say could be not enough oil getting to tappets etc.

I've checked my oil level, I changed it about 3000kms ago I believe, I double checked my oil last night and its gone darker since friday night??? does that mean anything? The oil level isn't low at all though! What else could cause the tappets making the noise? not enough oil isn't the answer and I don't feel that the oil is that dirty??? It nearly needs replacing but not that bad.

the car has barely been run, but for the short amount of time that it has I wouldn't have thought it was enough to change the whole colour???

the car drops revs very rarely and very randomly, doesn't happen often anymore in comparison to a month ago and I haven't changed anything. It mainly drops to 0rmp and bounces back up when I do a short burst of acc and then placing the clutch in to stop all of a sudden??? Never when the engine is cold!

The car starts fine, the car drives fine, just makes this damn noise! It is no longer pinging as far as I can tell!

The noise I believe I can hear sounds like the injectors when car is stationary and not in gear, when I start driving it the noise becomes louder and faster??? Sound stays the same just louder and faster???

Driving me nuts! I'm driving my partners old skyline now, nearly put my foot through the floor from his ridiculously light clutch!!! haha! I want my car back!!!!!

Anyone think it could be a particular sensor failing???

it could be something in the oil like abit of water that could be making the pinging but not sure the idling issue could be ur bov if u have one. if the airs not getting though right it will go stupid like that i blocked my bov of and i would go nuts and when ur at the lights u would have to rev it and when u put ur foot on the clutch it would die.

Sounds like lifters to me. since u need an oil change soon anyways try puttin a THICK oil in the car (HPR50). This might free up the lifter. You dont need low oil for lifter to be making noise.

Even buy lifter treatment (nulon stuff) and put it in with thick oil, then let car run for bit then take it for a drive. Drive it for 5-10min then it should go away, if not then you may need new lifters.

Once you have done this i would recommend puttin the lighter more suited oil back in.

I would try this as it is a cheap way to determine/fix the problem. If you dont succeed take it to a workshop

Sounds like lifters to me. since u need an oil change soon anyways try puttin a THICK oil in the car (HPR50). This might free up the lifter. You dont need low oil for lifter to be making noise.

Even buy lifter treatment (nulon stuff) and put it in with thick oil, then let car run for bit then take it for a drive. Drive it for 5-10min then it should go away, if not then you may need new lifters.

Once you have done this i would recommend puttin the lighter more suited oil back in.

I would try this as it is a cheap way to determine/fix the problem. If you dont succeed take it to a workshop

Found out what the problem is............ Need to replace my exhaust manifold gasket.... don't ask me how it was causing all of those problems especially the pinging but thats the only thing wrong with my car!!!!!

Thanks for everyone's help!!!!!!!

P.S Now I have to replace it... where do I buy a manifold gasket from???

Edited by jessr33
Nissan !

Glad it was only a small problem after all of that

Yeah we shall be finding out tonight on whether its the 'only' problem with my car but how the guy explained it, it made sense!

Can't wait to have her running properly again!

genuine nissan part so at least I know its the real deal!!!

Cheers guys!!!!!!

Edited by jessr33

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
×
×
  • Create New...