Ran My Car For First Time At Calder

[wildr33gtst]

Not to happy With my time as i couldnt launch her properly, I ran consistent 13.7's with 2.5 60ft @ 109mph.

Was Missfiring a little bit to and that was running 0.8 bar boost, This week im going back and going to sort out this missfire and try and run 1 bar or so.

My mods Include:

Apexi Safc 2 and SITC

Z32 AFM

Mv Shift Kit

3inch turbo back exhaust

Greddy Profec A boost controller

Sard fuel regulator

GCG Hi flow Turbo

Hks Front Mount Intercooler

Bosch 040 Fuel Pump

Plus More but can think of anything now

Tuned for 1 bar Boost (230rwkw)

So it was probably running a little less power than what it could have, but just really dissapointed with my 60ft times, Tried overdrive off with manual shifting and in Drive Stalling it Up With Handbrake i had 5 runs all within one hundrenth of a second of each other.

Im Running Standard Suspension that needs replacing, and running 18inch wheels with Pirelli P Zero Rosso Tyres, Can anyone sugest how i can get my 60 ft down to 2.1 I know the car has more in it if i can just sort out my crap takeoff? Should i replace my shocks with stock ones as i would think soft is better for the drags or should i buy Some Coilovers? Or Stall Converter? Thanks in advance any help would be appreciated.

Can anyone diagnose maybe where i went wrong her's my time slip and old dyno Graph can't find latest one.

Edited May 14, 2007 by wildr33gtst

[FineLine]

Was there any wheelspin involved. I deflate my tyres to 18 lb and cook the shit out of them in the burnout. I am running manual with at least 40 rwkw's less than you and run 13.5's. Autos i have no experience with in a drag situ but i guess all you can do is load it against the torque converter as hard as it will hold and letterip.

[Robo's]

Exactly as Fineline said, is there any wheelspin involved?? Sounds like there isnt. You need more bottom end grunt to get out of the hole. Suspension won't do nothing if your not spinning the wheelspin. Maybe a little more boost is needed and probably your best bet would be a stall convertor.

Edited May 9, 2007 by Robo's

[wildr33gtst]

yeah i did a burnout to warm up the tyres, I stalled it to about 2800rpm just before wheel spin then step on it. It just doesnt hook up quick enough when i let go of the brake, its almost like it hesitates then she starts to move.

Otherwise if i stall any higher it results in heaps of wheelspin.

Probably going to fix the missfire tomorrow and try and get some stockies for the back, and get some semi slicks or something and see if that helps, and run a bit more boost.

My 60 ft's killing my time probably doesnt help that my shocks are stuffed either.

[wildr33gtst]

thanks for that robo i was considering getting a stall converter might look in to it now, yeah will probably try again this week with more boost and stockies with semi's and see how that goes. Otherwise i will be getting a stally next week :-)

[wildr33gtst]

Anyone going to calder tomorrow?

[MZTRBO]

My auto r33 has the same issue..

235rwkw and hesitates off the line..it is due to the power curve in it though and that my gearbox is shitting itself..i only had a safc with no ignition tuning done..

have you got a dyno print out?

I think you need a bigger stally with the tune by the sounds of it..or more midrange in it..

Try stalling it up so it spins a little then take off and feather the throttle a little..if you get the wheels spinning a tiny bit i think it will launch off once it grips, a little wheel spin off the line is good ive heard...

[wildr33gtst]

tried that first run let it spin abit then i just ended up spinning to 3/4 track maybe i should have feathered it abit more.

Edited May 10, 2007 by wildr33gtst

[wildr33gtst]

i will post my Time slip and my dyno Graph when i get home from work, its just that little hesitation thats really killing my time

[wildr33gtst]

stally is the way to go i think thought it could have launched alright without it but it doesn't seem to be so, what time did you run with 235rwkw? really happy with the speed of the shifts though its just getting it off the line.

Edited May 10, 2007 by wildr33gtst

[MZTRBO]

Havnt run it yet was going to on anzac but it was cancelled...

The auto is dying in it now, as it was not in good health before the increased power either, so I may not run it until i get a stronger box or put a manual it in..unsure wat to do at this stage..

With that mph your car is more then capable of running hi 12's. Like you said if you get it sorted it will be one quick machine..

A stally would be the go..You would also get a better and earlier curve with a replacement ecu but youve got a ecu controlled auto is the only issue..

Good luck

[wildr33gtst]

yeah was aiming at hi to mid twelves when i first started this project, this was the only route i could have gone with the auto is using an SAFC and SITC Combo i have been looking at the new apexi piggyback but don't want to be the first to try it, incase it doesn't work to well.

Edited May 10, 2007 by wildr33gtst

[MZTRBO]

id get the emanage (ultimate) as your best bet, I would too if i had money...

[MZTRBO]

though the most important thing when it comes to ecu selection is its not what ecu suits you or your car. Its the ecu that your tuner is comfortable with and specialises in...I think the tuner is way more important then any ecu selection..

When I got the SAFC tuned though the tuner said with out ignition control he would not get a good midrange out of the car...

[wildr33gtst]

i agree my mechanic which is racingline likes the power fc, but i have been researching this for a few years now, and i have always been worried about the auto not shifting properly because of the gear logic in the ecu, most aftermarket engine managements are not made to support autos, otherwise i would have went that route, some people say the power fc is alright on an auto and others say it wont shift properly because it doesnt cut the ignition timing on gear changes, so i opted for the only proven ecu combo which was the SITC and SAFC2, waiting to hear feedback from the new apexi piggyback that has been released which retains the standard ecu and has better tuning points for ignition and fuel than my previous setup i have now.

I have also been looking into the greddy ultimate because apparently it runs auto but i havent seen many people try it yet, I still flipping up what to do.

Edited May 11, 2007 by wildr33gtst

[wildr33gtst]

fixed missfire yesterday and did a quick service, considering running it again tonight if i get off work early enough, Is anyone going tonight?

[MZTRBO]

any piggy back wont affect the auto as its pluging into the standard ecu, even though the auto is onctrolled by a seperate auto only ecu it is linked..

The bigger the risk the greater chance for reward. Also higher risk of loss though. You auto may blow up..get another one for a couple of hundred bux..haha.

Cheers

[wildr33gtst]

here is my old dyno sheet cant find the latest but i'm going back on wednesday to take a bit of fuel out up top, because its hitting the fuel cut, probably because i got it tuned on a 35 degree day earlier on in summer. When i ran it it was on 0.8 bar boost because of the fuel cut, so hopefull pull 240rwkw or so on wednesday. Can anyone tell me if this is an alright dyno graph will post new one up on wednesday.

[R33GOD]

did u see me there on friday? ( gunr33). what color 33 do u drive?

[wildr33gtst]

was there the week earlier was going to go last week but wasn't organised in time. im going again this week are you?

i Drive a Wine Red one with front lip and 18's.

Edited May 14, 2007 by wildr33gtst