Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

now what are steps involved in making ur engine bay a lil more dressier

e.g silcone hoses , braided lines, powder coating ( what is this )

is dere anybody dat professionally can do it for u without me pulling a hose dat i dunno what it is for?

apart from that any advice is good

cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/167996-engine-detailing/
Share on other sites

rocker covers diy, coil pack cover diy. search and there are many threads relating to how its done. also you can do timing belt cover yourself.

dressing up other things is up to you. powder coating is similar to painting just the layer is thicker and if done corrctly is very effective in high temp projects. things i would recommened powder coating are the plenum, all your fmic pipes, and thats about it. you can buy coloured radiator hose kits from auto bahn, and other hoses u can just measure diametre and replace hose for hose once you purchase the desired colour hose.

professionally will cost you heaps. diy and save some cash

things i would recommened powder coating are the plenum, all your fmic pipes...

Can I ask why you'd recommend powder coating ic piping?

Would that have a negative effect in regards to cooling performance by effectively creating a layer of insulation, and inhibiting heat from dissipating?

i tried searching it... rocket covers " engine detail

ENGINE

stuff like that

ahh is see who usually does the powder coating on these forums? thats well known for em

is there way i can tell which lines are water, oil etc so i dun replace a silcone hose with a oil isntead using a braidedline etc

?

i tried searching it... rocket covers " engine detail

... there's no rockets in the engine, so the term "rocket cover" probably wouldn't return too many results. :P

Have a look through some of these for more info.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=107788

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=161128

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=150105

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=157397

Hey guys got an r33- gts-t i wana get my pipe lookn from factory to stainless steel is dat possible

what is involved ?

what tools and n product o i need to get it that look from factory n not spend money on piping instead doing it myself and polishing it to look stanless steel is it possible

Can I ask why you'd recommend powder coating ic piping?

Would that have a negative effect in regards to cooling performance by effectively creating a layer of insulation, and inhibiting heat from dissipating?

its worth powder coating the pipe that comes from the front mount to the plenumm, it insulates the pipe and keeps the cold air that has just passed through the fmic colder than allowing it to absorb heat on its return back into the bay.

yer i thought of that but i wana get the engine like stainless steel look and make it look clean wit new silicone joints and so on

so wot polsishing product u recommend and what tools do i need to do it?

um, polishing product? y just get it powder coated in a chrome. no polishing and fuss. just a wipe occassionally. tools to pull apart an r33 bay is simple, 2 screwdrivers, socket set and spanner set. done. oh and some side cutters and pliers.

btw powder coating in a chrome is cheap, i had 4 wheels powder coated in gloss white for $80, so some piping in chrome wont be more than that.

Edited by cheez

ahh i see that means its better off for guys to have the rocket cover, and there pipes polishe by powder coating them with chrome

that is a desired effect amongst most ppl

im interested n your shop for dahtone racing

im sure if you post here what you can help us with an stuff that ppl in sydney will surely come around to ya.

thats some nice engine bay work there.

hey russo im not sure what material your intercooler pipe is but try steel wool an some multigrease wash to clean it first.. it shu become shiny.. ( if its not chrome ) then shine with brasso.. and after that just lacquer it with high gloss so when ust n shit hits you can just wipe it off?

thats what oldman across the road told me

n its working so far

cheers bois for all ur replies

you cant powder coat chrome its like trying to paint chrome

it never comes out the same

to chrome something u need to polish it to a mirror like finish then plate it.

polished metal IMO sucks because theres so much maintenance, it goes dull very quickly.

with regards to Dahtone Racing we are a mobile service so we come to you

yeah but then what you polished and plated the parts in your pictures so well

i dun think i've seen a car that looks that darn good in the engine bay

....

i wanna get da chrommmee !!!!!!!!!!!

lol mite cause like a grand or sumfin ahahhaa

everything in mine is chromed except for the wastegate, brake master cylinder and clutch master cylinder

i ran out of time to get em done for the show, but they are getting moved up under the dash anyway so they wont be seen at all

if you want parts chromed PM me i can give you prices

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...