Jump to content
SAU Community

Taking Out Back Seats :/

Chi100188
 Share

Recommended Posts

Chi100188 Mentor

Chi100188

Posted
Posted

how do u take out the back seats for a R33 ? because im installing Tein coil overs....i've searched the forum but didn't come up with ne thing that can help me hmmm could ne one shed some light? or paste a link that could help me or even post some pics up of the process

Cheers

Chi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169389-taking-out-back-seats/
Share on other sites
are33 Proficient

are33

Posted
Posted

Hey bud, Undo the two bolts near the floor, then with a bit of force pull them up off, you need to put in a bit of effort as they are clipped into the body of the car, then undo the bolts that hold the backrest of the seat up, and they usually just lift off.

Then = access to your suspension.

win!!11111

hope i helped.

Habler Rising Star

Habler

Posted
Posted

Like OBNXSH said... just remember that they are stuck in their preety freakin tight and need a damn good tug to get out. And need to be pushed just as hard to be put back in. Just make sure you get them lined up properly before hand and then drop a good old knee down and they should pop straight in.

siddr20 Grand Master

siddr20

Posted
Posted

Im pretty sure you will need to take the back parcel shelf out as well..

In order to do that, im sure the side plastic bits need to come off.. plus seat belts..

Im gonna be replacing my rear shocks tomorrow, so i will be doing the same..

I might take some pics if you need them..

jrocket Proficient

jrocket

Posted
Posted

You can get the rear shelf out without taking the side plastic bits off. You can kinda flex the shelf at the sides to get it out. There is like this little tab at the bottom of the plastic side bits that slot into the rear shelf. With the seat out you might be able to get ya hand in the sides and feel them. I just lifted the shelf a bit and kinda bowed the shelf to allow you to get it outta these slots. Also the shelf seemed to have a few press in clips but this popped out very easy.

good luck

evil_weevil Grand Master

evil_weevil

Posted
Posted

When I put my suspension - didnt need to take parcel shelf out, mine was flexible so was all good, just had to hold it up a bit although if you do have "big hands" it'll be a tight fit :huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Thanks for that, I'll check it all out. I can always do the brakes last anyway if its a problem.  The 16's are super cool, if they do fit I'll cruise around with them for a bit.  
    • GTSBoy
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • Duncan
      Neil's R33 Gts-t Build

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • PranK
      My BMW E39 528i touring

      By PranK · Posted

      Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
×
×
  • Create New...