Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

how do u take out the back seats for a R33 ? because im installing Tein coil overs....i've searched the forum but didn't come up with ne thing that can help me hmmm could ne one shed some light? or paste a link that could help me or even post some pics up of the process

Cheers

Chi

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/169389-taking-out-back-seats/
Share on other sites

Hey bud, Undo the two bolts near the floor, then with a bit of force pull them up off, you need to put in a bit of effort as they are clipped into the body of the car, then undo the bolts that hold the backrest of the seat up, and they usually just lift off.

Then = access to your suspension.

win!!11111

hope i helped.

Like OBNXSH said... just remember that they are stuck in their preety freakin tight and need a damn good tug to get out. And need to be pushed just as hard to be put back in. Just make sure you get them lined up properly before hand and then drop a good old knee down and they should pop straight in.

Im pretty sure you will need to take the back parcel shelf out as well..

In order to do that, im sure the side plastic bits need to come off.. plus seat belts..

Im gonna be replacing my rear shocks tomorrow, so i will be doing the same..

I might take some pics if you need them..

You can get the rear shelf out without taking the side plastic bits off. You can kinda flex the shelf at the sides to get it out. There is like this little tab at the bottom of the plastic side bits that slot into the rear shelf. With the seat out you might be able to get ya hand in the sides and feel them. I just lifted the shelf a bit and kinda bowed the shelf to allow you to get it outta these slots. Also the shelf seemed to have a few press in clips but this popped out very easy.

good luck

When I put my suspension - didnt need to take parcel shelf out, mine was flexible so was all good, just had to hold it up a bit although if you do have "big hands" it'll be a tight fit :huh:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
×
×
  • Create New...