Jump to content
SAU Community

Front Wheels Rubbing On Guard Linings

klenn
 Share

Recommended Posts

klenn Contributor

klenn

Posted
Posted

Hi guys ive got a skyline r33 sedan with king springs in the front and over time my car has begun to rub on the front first it was one side that has been quite chewed on the outer edge by the guard the other side has been fine then just started doing it all of a sudden too, I have put a 10mm spacer in the top of the springs which has eliminated the problem abit but when on the open rd and conering hard and theres a small bump itl rub im getting quite concearned beacause one side has chomped the top of the gaurd lining and looks like its ready to start on a wiring loom up there! the springs are the king springs low, not super low and they were fine for about 3 years used to take 5 ppl in the car heaps and no probs the shocks & springs were new at 80000kms and the car has now done 135000, when i was putting the spacers in the shocks rebound still seemed ok but im not a suspension specialist.

Any help is appreciated for a start I ask should this suspension be able to have that much movement!??? and also do springs really sag or could it be something ive missed like a worn bush or something.

Thanks guys I hope you can help.

klenn Contributor

klenn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
springs may have sagged, plus alignment does go out. visually have you got lots of camber or castor? also, what is the offset of your wheels? do they sit quite in-board - towards the centre of the car?

hey man chhers for your input ill check the offset and no they are fairly straight. nah the wheels dont sit that far in the car it is the outer edge getting chewed though. but I will check offset. still doesnt explain why it didnt happen before though? when you push on the car it is still stiff as. thanx for your input so far man.

klenn Contributor

klenn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
your suspension is probably shagged + wrong wheel offsets. Do a search for SK's thread on why you shouldn't use lowered springs on factory suspension.

Hey man as above ill check the offset and get back to ya. I couldnt seem to find a post on that you would be able to do a quick recap would you? car still drives nice and handles mint on the front apart from this crappy problem. cheers for your help so far.

boostdriven Apprentice

boostdriven

Posted
Posted

The first thing you should do... Jack up your car, take off your wheel.

Find a heat gun and a mallet/hammer, cover the tub edge with layers of tape.

Then heat the sucker up, tape should protect paint, then slowly roll the edges

in using the hammer, while keeping the edge hot enough to fold.

I had problems like that on my old car but in the back, the lip of the tub shreaded

the walls of my tyres, but was all good after doing that..

**unless i read your post wrong and you actually mean the tub itself but then i

figured the tyre would be hitting the suspension housing..? :worship:

klenn Contributor

klenn

Posted
  • Author
Posted
The first thing you should do... Jack up your car, take off your wheel.

Find a heat gun and a mallet/hammer, cover the tub edge with layers of tape.

Then heat the sucker up, tape should protect paint, then slowly roll the edges

in using the hammer, while keeping the edge hot enough to fold.

I had problems like that on my old car but in the back, the lip of the tub shreaded

the walls of my tyres, but was all good after doing that..

**unless i read your post wrong and you actually mean the tub itself but then i

figured the tyre would be hitting the suspension housing..? :worship:

Hey man doing that would mean removing the inner gaurd linings for food and i cant o that becos all the rocks and crap spray up and through onto the side skirts and wen you open the door they grind on the skirt with the rocks between and it scratches them to death.

boostdriven Apprentice

boostdriven

Posted
Posted
Hey man doing that would mean removing the inner gaurd linings for food and i cant o that becos all the rocks and crap spray up and through onto the side skirts and wen you open the door they grind on the skirt with the rocks between and it scratches them to death.

i kinda understand that..

Well i can see how that would affect the front, i would just raise the suspension.. ive only seen it happen in the rear of my cars, so i wouldnt notice stones etc, seeing as rear dont turn.

thinner rim..

raise front..

roll tub lips..

adjust camber..

many options but you should be able to make a simple DIY

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • perry_r33
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By perry_r33 · Posted

      Pm sent 
    • Robot
      Skyline v36 350GT sedan hunting on idle

      By Robot · Posted

      Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...