Jump to content
SAU Community

Sound Dropout

Ad_N

By Ad_N,
in Car Audio & Electrical

 Share

Recommended Posts

Ad_N Collaborator

Ad_N

Posted
Posted

The stereo has been in the car a while now, and all of a sudden I have noticed that there is a sound dropout. It happens every now and then and is beginning to piss me off. I will start the car, and it sounds as if there is only sound coming from the rear speakers. It may take 5 minutes or half an hour and eventually the system goes back to normal.

The system comprises of components in the front and 6 x 9's in the rear run by an Audison amp, and two subs in the boot run by a cadence amp. I had pretty much the same system in the old skyline and I have disconnected and reconnected cables but to no avail.

Any ideas anyone?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170428-sound-dropout/
Share on other sites
DECIM8 Grand Master

DECIM8

Posted
Posted (edited)

i'd back the amps matie .. whatever is powering your front splits is having issues ... orrrr I know its a weird idea but your cones have dust one them .. check!! sounds weird but can seriously stop ur doof going doof .. has to be only about 1mm thick

also check your head unit .. see if wiggling the wires which connect to the h.u turns on the speakers.. then u might find ur problem

Edited by DECIM8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170428-sound-dropout/#findComment-3148880
Share on other sites
DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

didnt you say in the first post that you disconnected and reconnected the cables?

well that includes earth cables... so if you have already done that, then i would suggest no... again...

but if you haven't done that, i would suggest going over your wires... again... for the first time...

is it a sudden pop and theyre working again? cause if it is, its a wire somewhere... or whatever amp is running them is going into protect when you turn the car on, then waiting to come out of it...

most likely cause of a LOOSE WIRE...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170428-sound-dropout/#findComment-3149292
Share on other sites
Ad_N Collaborator

Ad_N

Posted
  • Author
Posted
didnt you say in the first post that you disconnected and reconnected the cables?

well that includes earth cables... so if you have already done that, then i would suggest no... again...

but if you haven't done that, i would suggest going over your wires... again... for the first time...

is it a sudden pop and theyre working again? cause if it is, its a wire somewhere... or whatever amp is running them is going into protect when you turn the car on, then waiting to come out of it...

most likely cause of a LOOSE WIRE...

Dont get emotional. I did say I checked all the cables. Not the wires eg earth. Again... dont get emotional.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170428-sound-dropout/#findComment-3149359
Share on other sites
Ad_N Collaborator

Ad_N

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you make me cry :P

wires/cables... they're the same thing...

again... you make me cry :'(

Wires and cables being the same thing could be argued. Anyways, I'm only shit stirring hey. When I checked all the wiring/cables, I was referring to mainly RCA's and cables to the amps, speaker cables and head unit cables. As far as I can find there is an earth cable which runs from the head unit, and as the two amps are connected I think there is one earth from them.

As I never installed the system, I should probably just go to my installer but I was hoping to try and figure it out myself.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170428-sound-dropout/#findComment-3149661
Share on other sites
DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted

psh, your boot install is better... thats about it i think :woot: STILL haven't met you...

but yeah, its a weird problem... if it is just popping back on instantly, then its either a loose wire or the amp is in protect, cause of a loose wire... Wish i could have a look at it, but im betting its one of those... dont think its your gear...

that ground running from the head unit you speak of is the remote wire for the amps... it tells them to turn and off... its a constant positive feed, dont know how strong, but if its exposed somewhere and hitting the body of the car, then it will turn the amps on and off intermittenly...

DECIM8: Im thinking about dropping 2k on subs this weekend... you STILL gunna have a better system then me then? ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170428-sound-dropout/#findComment-3150688
Share on other sites
DECIM8 Grand Master

DECIM8

Posted
Posted

Hahah 2 K on subs .. wasting it .. I got my Fusion NV comp series for $300 and it shakes buildings apart... Not to mention my poor boot..

Wait im a lier .. Unless your dumping it on some JL series or somthing? Id love to hear that .. W7 :worship:

I hope you got some serious front setup to match .. I wanna install those crazy lil vibrating things... Haha just for the chiqs bro hahahah

My boot install is crap im going to rip it out and start again for the 3rd time .. to hard to please

I wanna see ur install!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170428-sound-dropout/#findComment-3151130
Share on other sites
DRD-00F Grand Master

DRD-00F

Posted
Posted
Hahah 2 K on subs .. wasting it .. I got my Fusion NV comp series for $300 and it shakes buildings apart... Not to mention my poor boot..

Wait im a lier .. Unless your dumping it on some JL series or somthing? Id love to hear that .. W7 :yes:

I hope you got some serious front setup to match .. I wanna install those crazy lil vibrating things... Haha just for the chiqs bro hahahah

My boot install is crap im going to rip it out and start again for the 3rd time .. to hard to please

I wanna see ur install!

My install is what we in the profession call... "temporary" :worship:

i have some powerful MBQ for front, and some alpine Type S for the rear... i still need to amp them, but they will be getting 100WRMS each when i get my ass around to doing it...

theres nothing special about my install as of yet, im still thinking up a decent and original design... i have a few ideas, but space appears to be the biggest problem...

and no, its not JL... the subs im getting are rated at nearly twice the power output of the 12W7... and its not some gimmick either...

542.jpg

see the 'danger zone'? thats the comfort zone for these subs :banana:

PS: they cost $1k each... but im getting 40% off... no one who is serious about this pays shelf price :3some:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170428-sound-dropout/#findComment-3151227
Share on other sites
Gazee Grand Master

Gazee

Posted
Posted

yea thats right, if the fuse blows it wont turn on, i didn't say it was blown, when you test for condinuity on a FAULTY fuse, it has condinuity sometimes and sometimes its a broken circuit... i.e. his dropouts of sound

you must really love your bass to pop a fuse LOL

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/170428-sound-dropout/#findComment-3151231
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • dbm7
      R34 Skyline climate control unit transistor

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      First time we have seen lights 
    • Wazmond
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By Wazmond · Posted

      I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • soviet_merlin
      Howdy Y'all

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • soviet_merlin
      WGNC34 - floor mats

      By soviet_merlin · Posted

      Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...