Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive had the pleasure of owning r33 gtst, driving alot of Gtrs and owning a xr6turbo.

they are really 2 different cars, ones a sedan with highperformance motor, one is a all round sports car.

Aside from the performances of each, the ford is a bigger, more luxiourios and newer car. If you wer to buy a used one, get it from a dealer, and pay the $1000 extra for Ford New car warrantly. My brother recently bought an 04 xr6 turbo ute, within a month, turbo had gone, trans went and diff went. All replaced by Ford Dealerships for brand newies! Hes very happy.

My Xr was a 6 speed manual. big mistake, biggest pos tranny around, noisy, clunky, and impossible to launch. It had 270rwkw and was fast, however the weight gets to u, and doesnt feel as good as it should. However, it draws no attention at all, was comfortable to drive all the time.

Back to the weight issue, definately get one with upgraded brake package. I had standard brakes and they used to shudder and basically fade within a min or 2 when driving in the hills. The car was heavy and very slow. Compared to my current car which is an s15, my s15 was 39 secs quicker along a 4min section of road than my xr6turbo with 270rwkw, and my s15, which then had around 130rwkw. So weight is a huge issue as is brakes.

However in straight lines, the ford was very good, but admitted hard to launch. Get a 4spd auto as they can be edited, however the 6sp cannot. The 6sp is a better tranny though stock for stock.

So basically, if u think the ford will do what the gtr can, ur very wrong, and will regret your purchase. If u want a cruiser, dont want to create attention, new car, etc etc the ford is the way to go. 260-270rwkw is about normal on a manual xr with ford edit. around 240-250 for an auto. The autos with this much power can do mid to high 12s.

After that, you need to do Valvesprings, Injectors, Intercooler, and perhaps fuel pump. Then your lookin at 300+ and low 12s at least.

Hope this info was helpful. Just sharing what my experiences have been.

I also wonder how a meaningful post would contribute to the thread.

Good experiences shared by Enrico, I'd go on his word.

Well...

The reason I mentioned the RB30DETT was in response to this:

Capacity is king, go for the biggest motor you can.

I should've been more specific...

I can see how capacity may be a major factor, but surely quality of build, quality of mods, response balance and revs would all equate to one engine being superior to the other.... I it isn't like Nissan DON'T know what they were doing when they made the RB's... I've driven cars with simular motors, I've driven my mates non-turbo BA mkII Xr6... I myself have been driving a VL Commodore for over a year, and I will concur that s stock non-turbo Rb30E and a pos engine... Nothing compared to its true Nissan counter-parts... Funny enough, my dad has a Datsun 260Z, with an L26 engine... IIRC it has 150BHP but for some reason, it felt far quicker than it probably was... I will say, driving my mate's Falcon was awesome, and even in non-turbo form there is a fair bit of go there. However, after driving the Datsun around a fair bit, I can see WHY Nissan got to the stage were they were making one of the best inline six motors of our time, even the L26 Engine was bloody fantastic....

In reference the the Rb30DET/DETT however, I just wonder that if you have an inline 4.0 6 cyl Turbo and an RB inline six DET/DETT, would the extra 500cc-400cc with the RB30 be of any benefit for pre-spool torque than say the RB25 or RB26??? Even with the RB30, Nissan engine looses out to the Ford by a litre...

I reckon Blitz (I think its him with the GTR and 2.8 rb26??) will agree that an RB26 with a 2.8l stroker kit will still pull harder off the line and beat an xr6t around any bends for all that 400m of straight road matters.

Listen to enrico palazzo hes had good experience with all nissan RB's and the xr6T, even I heard without even driving a xr6t that ford recalled ALOT of them due to poor transmission performance...

Marco,

When you consider the Skyline weighs less, has shorter diff gears and the RB30DET rev's harder it evens its self out fairly well.

However off idle acceleration the 4ltr turbo still has it over the rb30det running a gt35r .82. But by much less than you'd think.

Up and rolling.. The 2 cars making the same power but one weighing a 2-3 hundred kg's less (gts4) the skyline runs away like the ford is standing still. Thats to be expected, power to weight comes in to play.

Now throw a smaller turbo on the 3ltr so that it spools earlier making 200-210rwkw and it walks all over the 270kw XR6T, off idle, up and rolling its close. Now compare the rb30det 200-210rwkw against an rb25 making the same power, off idle and up and rolling in gear acceleration there simply no competition. Some of you rb25 blokes might not like that but until you've sat side by side with an rb30det making the same power you can't comment. The greater mid range power makes a MASSIVE difference to off idle and in gear acceleration. :)

Thats my experience anyway. No speculation of any sort.

I reckon Blitz (I think its him with the GTR and 2.8 rb26??) will agree that an RB26 with a 2.8l stroker kit will still pull harder off the line and beat an xr6t around any bends for all that 400m of straight road matters.

It will because its 4wd. Drop it in rwd and see how it performs off idle etc.. Thats essentially what I believe Marco is attempting to compare. All round average performance of the 'package' without high rpm boy racer launches.

A little off topic but myself.. I'm interested in all round performance; corner exit acceleration, in gear rolling acceleration etc.

From what I've observed (both driving and driving with) a lot of the big turbo'd small cubic capacity motors tend to not get up and go in the lower gears. They beg you to click third and hold it down... Which becomes a little tiring when its a daily and definitely not good for your license.

Now throw a smaller turbo on the 3ltr so that it spools earlier making 200-210rwkw and it walks all over the 270kw XR6T, off idle, up and rolling its close. Now compare the rb30det 200-210rwkw against an rb25 making the same power, off idle and up and rolling in gear acceleration there simply no competition. Some of you rb25 blokes might not like that but until you've sat side by side with an rb30det making the same power you can't comment. The greater mid range power makes a MASSIVE difference to off idle and in gear acceleration. ;)

No need to preach to the converted - there is no replacement for displacement :) Just convince the RB20 people that the same thing applies to them when in comparison to an RB25, to an even bigger degree :) I'm happy with a 2.5 in the meantime, because just because a monster can beat it - doesn't mean it ain't quick.

When you consider the Skyline weighs less, has shorter diff gears and the RB30DET rev's harder it evens its self out fairly well. However off idle acceleration the 4ltr turbo still has it over the rb30det running a gt35r .82. But by much less than you'd think.

Up and rolling.. The 2 cars making the same power but one weighing a 2-3 hundred kg's less (gts4) the skyline runs away like the ford is standing still. Thats to be expected, power to weight comes in to play.

Now throw a smaller turbo on the 3ltr so that it spools earlier making 200-210rwkw and it walks all over the 270kw XR6T, off idle, up and rolling its close. Now compare the rb30det 200-210rwkw against an rb25 making the same power, off idle and up and rolling in gear acceleration there simply no competition. Some of you rb25 blokes might not like that but until you've sat side by side with an rb30det making the same power you can't comment. The greater mid range power makes a MASSIVE difference to off idle and in gear acceleration. :)

It will because its 4wd. Drop it in rwd and see how it performs off idle etc.. Thats essentially what I believe Marco is attempting to compare. All round average performance of the 'package' without high rpm boy racer launches.

A little off topic but myself.. I'm interested in all round performance; corner exit acceleration, in gear rolling acceleration etc. From what I've observed (both driving and driving with) a lot of the big turbo'd small cubic capacity motors tend to not get up and go in the lower gears. They beg you to click third and hold it down... Which becomes a little tiring when its a daily and definitely not good for your license.

I agree with what your saying, but what I was thinking is that 4wd, a large portion of the Skyline's weight advantage is negated, but something I didn't (and should've) considered was the massive gain in grip and power to ground traction.... I myself have an Rb25DET NEO in my GTT, and yes it is a great motor, but you can tell it is just dieing from some down low grunt... I've got an RB30E in my VL that I'd like to pull out, strip down and rebuild (with forged components), however, I'm at a loss of whether to go for an RB26 head or RB25 head... I can see the merit in going to an RB30DET/DETT... I just need to do it right...

I like your comparisons from stop-starts, and rolling acceleration... it is something a lot of people fail to consider, and a well balanced, well built and well tuned engine/vehicle will be a good all-round performer..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
×
×
  • Create New...