Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

post-30145-1181117631_thumb.jpgpost-30145-1181117848_thumb.jpgpost-6787-1123677378.jpgpost-30145-1181117799_thumb.jpgpost-30145-1181117746_thumb.jpg[

ttachment=102290:DSCF0214.JPG]post-30145-1185446017_thumb.jpgpost-30145-1185446073_thumb.jpgpost-30145-1185446231_thumb.jpg[at

achment=110652:DSCF0238.JPG]post-30145-1185446566_thumb.jpgpost-30145-1185446485_thumb.jpgpost-30145-1185446566_thumb.jpgpost-30145-1181117631_thumb.jpg[atta

hment=102289:DSCF0213.JPG]post-30145-1181117696_thumb.jpgpost-30145-1181117746_thumb.jpgpost-30145-1181117923_thumb.jpghey all,

up for sale is my 1993 nissan skyline gtst m-spec, with 128587 kms.

SERIES 1 1993 NISSAN SKYLINE

THIS EXAMPLE HAS THE FOLLOWING PERSONAL MODICATIONS:

JJR JUST JAP FMIC

JJR JUST JAP 3" FRONT DUMP PIPE

HI-FLOW CAT-CONVERTER

3 1/2 "CAT BACK EXHAUST INTO DUEL TIPS

HKS AIRPOD

HKS TURBO TIMER

HYBRID 2 STAGE ELECTRIC BOOST CONTROLLER

(LOW BOOST 7 PSI, HIGH BOOST 10PSI)

18" XHP SHIFT IN GUNMETAL GREY

BRAND NEW TYRES 225'S AT FRONT 235S AT REAR

(25 KMS ON FRONT AND REAR TYRES PURCHASED 05/06/07)

PIONEER MP3 CD PLAYER AND 12'SUB

COUSTIC 150RMS AMP

PIONEER REAR 6" SPEAKERS

KENWOOD FRONT SPLITS

REPELLER TOP OF THE LINE ALARM SYSTEM

(REMOTE CENTRAL LOCKING, ULTRASONICS AND IMMOBILSER)

HALF GOLD CROME WINDOW TINT/HAlF DARKEST LEGAL TINT

SLOTTED FRONT ROTORS

BENDIX ULITMATE BRAKE PADS

FULL SERVICE JUST COMPLETED

TIMING BELT CHANGED 105,000KMS

BOOST GAUGE

10 MONTHS REGO

ALL WORK AND SERVICING WAS COMPLETED BY NPB (NORTHERN BEACHES PERFORMACE, AS SEEN IN LATEST ISSUE OF HOT4'S WORKSHOP REVIEW)

SELLING DUE TO NEW COMPANY CAR.

AWESOME CAR LOOKING FOR A HOME. REGRETFUL SALE

WAS $12900

parking accident caused by other party has caused slight damage

scrape to the rear left bumper

slight crack in the rear tailight

golf ball size dent just to the left of the left taillight

still 100% driveable

will take 11500 with the damage repaired

or $10000 as it is

new pics shown above

regards

Dave

0423 321 221

post-30145-1185446133_thumb.jpg

post-30145-1185446193_thumb.jpg

post-30145-1185446329_thumb.jpg

post-30145-1185446361_thumb.jpg

post-30145-1185446402_thumb.jpg

post-30145-1185446455_thumb.jpg

post-30145-1185446522_thumb.jpg

Edited by MY33RT
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/171692-sold/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...