Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have the follwing parts up for sale due to engine upgrade will post pic's asap.

rb20det motor & box comes with the following(motor has bottom end bearring noise) post-1686-1181483637_thumb.jpg

* forged pistons

*t3-t4 ford cosworth bush bearring turbo with 3inch dump pipe ,comes on boost about 3500rpm post-1686-1181483675_thumb.jpg

*larger injectors rated around the 380

*car had just over 220rwkw @16 psi

*gear box is in good condition and comes with used heavy duty clutch $1000 for motor ,box,turbo & injectors

*wolf3d version4 plug in for rb20 with handcontroler, boost control and other sensor's must go $1000 cost $1700 post-1686-1181483562_thumb.jpg sold

*full intercooler kit from avo $200 post-1686-1181482593_thumb.jpg sold

*19 x8 inch gold zenetti mags to suit r32 gtst offset good condition 2 with 95%tread 2 with 20% tread $1200 sold

Edited by chewy32

Hey, how much for the wheels?

Let me know as I am in wollongong NSW

and am on the hunt for rims.

Cheers.

P.S. If tax was here already, I would grab that Wolf.

Hey, how much for the wheels?

Let me know as I am in wollongong NSW

and am on the hunt for rims.

Cheers.

P.S. If tax was here already, I would grab that Wolf.

mate, tell me about it i cant wait till tax time myself need some cash to finish mod's.

wanting $1200 for the wheels .

why is that?

is it because you have no idea on what car parts are worth to purchase?

or is it because you have no idea what a reasonable price is?

Didn't have any idea how much a second hand wolf was worth! I don't actually need one till the end of the year when the CA is built for the Datto, Just thought It might have been a bargain! Still a good price though!

Edited by boosted_sa
Didn't have any idea how much a second hand wolf was worth! I don't actually need one till the end of the year when the CA is built for the Datto, Just thought It might have been a bargain! Still a good price though!

ah , no worries

so bottom end bearing is gone on the motor ? how many ks was on it?

everything i need to do a conversion into another car?

bottom end bearring is gone car still runs just noisy

it depends what car? auto manual? you get complete motor minus computer you also get box and clutch, no pedals no clutch master.

if you want for a extra 150 i can sell you my piggy back computer which is just a chipped standard computer that allows you to run more fuel.

Edited by chewy32
^ s13, its currently auto ...

youll need to get a pedal box & clutch master and a few other bits and pieces not sure exactly , if you can find out what it needs?

let me know and ill check and see what i can throw in .

Edited by chewy32

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
    • I wanted to try and preserve the front bumper as long as possible, they're not cheap and are made to order in Japan. Taking inspiration from my previous K11 Micra build where I made an undertray for the Impul bumper, I did the same for this BN Sports bumper but a little slimmed down.  This time round I only made a 'skid plate' (if that's the correct wording/term) for just the bumper surface area, the Micra version covered the gap like an undertray. Starting off with a sheet of mild steel approx. 0.9mm thick 4ft x 2ft in size. I traced around the bumper, cut it out and cleaned the edges. Luckily I was able to get two halves from one piece of metal In the video I installed it as is, but I've since then I've removed it to spray and add a rubber edging trim. The rubber trim is suitable for 1-2mm and it's a really nice tight fit. The bolts had to be loosened due to the plates being too tight against the bumper, the trim wouldn't push on I used some stainless M6 flat headed bolts for a flusher finish (rather than hex heads poking down), I believe this style fastener is used for furniture too incase you struggle to source some. The corner's are a little wider, but this may be an advantage incase I get close to bumping it  The front grill got some attention, finally getting round to repairing it. Upon removal one fixing pulled itself out of the plastic frame, one side is M8 that fixes inside of the frame, where as the other side is M5. Not knowing I could get replacements, I cut down an M8 bolt, threaded it inside the frame along with a decent amount of JB Weld.  The mesh was replaced to match the bumper. One hole on the bonnet/hood had to be drilled out to 8mm to accommodate the new stud, once the glue had set it could be refitted. I think the reason the grill was double meshed was to hide the horn/bonnet latch (which makes sense) but I much prefer it matching the bumper Bumper refitted and it's looking much better IMO The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bVZP35io9MA
×
×
  • Create New...