Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys

This is a question to do with boost. I tried searching, but without much luck

my r32 GTR has the following mods:

garrett 2560r turbos

recently rebuilt engine (15000 clicks ago)

full 3.5 inch exhaust system with high flow cat and hks dump pipes

apexi pods

600hp fuel pump (not sure of the brand - the mechanic fitted and told me the name but i forgot).

What would be a safe level of boost to run based on these mods. It currently runs about 18psi. There is no boost controller fitted, so i assume that the wasegates have been changed prior to me buying this. The mechanic thinks that 18 psi is too high, and he thinks that he should fit wastegates which will allow it to boost to about 12psi. My understanding is that stock is about .8 bar (11-12 psi).

Can anyone advise:

1) what stock boost is on a r32 GTR; but more importantly,

2) what is a safe level of boost for my set up

Any help would be really great.

Thanks :P

Edited by Jpowys

Standard boost on a BNR32 is 7psi. Just by changing exhaust/intake it can go up to around 9-10psi.

Given what mods you have listed I wouldn't recommend going over the 18psi you are running.

What did you rebuild your engine with? Do you have splitfires?

Cheers!

Dan :P

Standard boost on a BNR32 is 7psi. Just by changing exhaust/intake it can go up to around 9-10psi.

Given what mods you have listed I wouldn't recommend going over the 18psi you are running.

What did you rebuild your engine with? Do you have splitfires?

Cheers!

Dan :P

Thanks Dan, that's good to know.

I don't know the specifics of the rebuild, since it was done before i bought it. The guy i bought it from told me it had forged pistons, but there's nothing to prove this, so who knows.

Do you think that 18psi is a safe "everyday" level? I hope to have the car for a few years, and definately don't want to have to be forking out for a new engine... oh, and the turbos are brand new...

thanks again :laugh:

If you can go back to the guy that you got the car from, try and find out whats in it - or better yet, get receipts. If you are not sure they are forged internals, dont treat them like forged internals.

If they ARE forged, 18psi is fine, you control the boost with your right foot anyways!

Cheers!

Dan :P

If you can go back to the guy that you got the car from, try and find out whats in it - or better yet, get receipts. If you are not sure they are forged internals, dont treat them like forged internals.

If they ARE forged, 18psi is fine, you control the boost with your right foot anyways!

Cheers!

Dan :P

Thanks again :laugh:

I tried to get these details from the previous owner, and he produced a receipt, but no details of what's inside. Given this, i'm treating it as though the internals are not forged - as you suggested. Given this, assuming that the engine is a reco and just stock, what level boost is safe to run? I'm wondering whether i need to go and source some wastegates with a tighted spring, therefore running lower boost - maybe 15-16 psi.. what do you think?

I'd also be interested in others' opinions too (not discounting what you're saying of course Dan, it's just good to have different perspectives)

:D

2) what is a safe level of boost for my set up

My personal experience:

I ran 18psi on the twin stockers for about 2 years (with a PowerFC, exhaust, k&n)

before I suffered the dreaded exhaust-wheel-in-cat syndrome. Plenty of track days etc.

Without management changes, I don't know that boost that high is a good idea - because

I don't know that the stock computer is mapped for those airflow rates.

Put a wideband 02 sensor on it and see what it's doing. If you're running good AFRs and

no detonation I can't see any reason for you not to run 18psi - the stock internals of my motor

still seem to be running strong after several months of 18psi T04Z goodness (165 across all

cylinders about a month ago).

As always, YMMV and you might want to err on the side of caution - perhaps my motor is

a freak of nature. If you were doing that, maybe back it off to 16psi...

Regards,

Saliya

Thanks again :)

I tried to get these details from the previous owner, and he produced a receipt, but no details of what's inside. Given this, i'm treating it as though the internals are not forged - as you suggested. Given this, assuming that the engine is a reco and just stock, what level boost is safe to run? I'm wondering whether i need to go and source some wastegates with a tighted spring, therefore running lower boost - maybe 15-16 psi.. what do you think?

I'd also be interested in others' opinions too (not discounting what you're saying of course Dan, it's just good to have different perspectives)

:P

Your turbos already have wastegates

To be running 18psi you most probably have upgraded wastegate ACTUATORS

The spring inside the wastegate actuator is what determines the boost level at which the wastegate flap will be pushed open

Therefore you need a SOFTER spring so that the wastegate opens with less boost. Not a 'tightened' spring as you say

Just trying to clear that up for you :/

Your turbos already have wastegates

To be running 18psi you most probably have upgraded wastegate ACTUATORS

The spring inside the wastegate actuator is what determines the boost level at which the wastegate flap will be pushed open

Therefore you need a SOFTER spring so that the wastegate opens with less boost. Not a 'tightened' spring as you say

Just trying to clear that up for you :)

Thanks for clarifying, that's what i meant, the actuators :)

I'm able to get this spring changed to adjust the boost, but what i'm trying to work out is how much boost is safe to run as a daily driver with the mods listed above? :O

Anyone else have any advice?

if youve got programmable management then no. 18psi would be a good number and with a good tune you should make some decent numbers

if standard ecu then i wouldnt go past 14psi.

sorry for ignornace, but "programable management", you mean an aftermarket ECU?

I was actually thinking about doing a Dr Drift tune, and doing it that way to save some $.

yeah an aftermarket ecu is what i mean

Power FC second hand on the forums can be had for $650 if you look...thats not too expensive

Im with femno here, take it somewhere that knows GTRs, that can tell you exactly whats on the thing and give you proper advice

sorry for ignornace, but "programable management", you mean an aftermarket ECU?

I was actually thinking about doing a Dr Drift tune, and doing it that way to save some $.

if your going remap speak to CREATD in campbelfield, nice new hands free dyno dynamics and a world of GTR experience. If you look in my signature you can see how clean their workshop is... the floor nearly blinds you....

if your going remap speak to CREATD in campbelfield, nice new hands free dyno dynamics and a world of GTR experience. If you look in my signature you can see how clean their workshop is... the floor nearly blinds you....

thanks, i will bare that in mind if i end up getting an aftermarket ECU...

Cheers :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...