Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi i have an r33 turbo that is hard to start when it is cold. I can get it to wind over, but it will not fire unless i hold the throttle open for a good 5 seconds, then it will cough and sneaze with black smoke until it starts and runs. after the car is warm it will start everytime easyily. the car runs perfectly. Has this got something to do with a cold start or something? if so were is it and how can i fix it?

Also when it is running the idle is at a high 1050 rpm. I have tried to lower it buy starting it then, disconnecting the brown acc plug, the winding in the acc idle all the way and reconnection the acc plug. i cant get the idle to run any lower. my ecu doesnt have the idle screw on it like others do. how can i lower it? help me pleaze

thank you

mark

list out your mods, when this began or anything like that so people have some sort of idea

Did it have troubles starting before you wound back the idle screw? 1050 isnt too high, mine is around 1100 warm and around 1500 cold. Also how thick is the oil in your car (eg. 10W40)

Also, black smoke is usually related to fuel so not a huge deal to worry about, probably best to get it checked at a mechanics though

Edited by Baconer
list out your mods, when this began or anything like that so people have some sort of idea

Did it have troubles starting before you wound back the idle screw? 1050 isnt too high, mine is around 1100 warm and around 1500 cold. Also how thick is the oil in your car (eg. 10W40)

Also, black smoke is usually related to fuel so not a huge deal to worry about, probably best to get it checked at a mechanics though

Yes i did have a bit of trouble with starting it before wound it bak but ive put it back to were it was and there is no change.

i Hve GTX 2 in the car.

All the car has that is aftermarket it the exhaust and hks bov.

Is the BOV plumbedback? If not try putting the stock bov back on and see if that changes anything.

Also how thick is the oil, brand doesnt mean much :O

plumback? that like the suck type rite? yer its one of those. i dont have the stock bov with me. i think the oil is 20 w something not quite sure, but wat has oil got to do with it may i add?

Plumback basically means it is 'plumbing' (piping) the pressure build up from the turbo back into the system. The HKS (guessing you have the SSQV) is an atmospheric BOV which is the opposite of plumback, so instead of it keeping the pressure buildup within the system it vents it out making the BOV noise. Atmospheric BOVs cause all sorts of stalling problems and may be part of the cause of your starting problems. Even though they sound pretty dam cool (i always wanted one :O) some people actually say they lower performance because the car has to build up the pressure after each gear change and bov vent. So try changing back to the stock or any other plumback system, can propably even plumback the SSQV so maybe look into that. Should be able to pickup a stock R33 BOV for under $50 on forums, just search around.

As for oil, if it is 20Wsomething then i'd bet some money on it being the cause of the starting problems. Its winter now and the mornings are cold so you add that onto the thick oil and its going to be tough for your car to start and would also explain why the problems disappear when the car is at operating temp. Try changing to some thinner oil (10W40) or even 0W40 and run it in for a while, post back here once you've tested those 2 things out and see how you go. Check out the 'goods on oil' thread for some more info on what oils are good.

i have nearly the same problem... if i take my car on short runs it wont start without pumping the accelerator when tryin to kick it over... i run mobil 1 semi syn 15/40, i have apexi bov on crossover but its not hooked up, i think its on the actulator...

dunno what ever sorts your problem may help me, unless its a different prob

i have nearly the same problem... if i take my car on short runs it wont start without pumping the accelerator when tryin to kick it over... i run mobil 1 semi syn 15/40, i have apexi bov on crossover but its not hooked up, i think its on the actulator...

dunno what ever sorts your problem may help me, unless its a different prob

yer mate im going to do up a diy turorial on the elemination process it took to fix it. it may help u of someone else thanks

ps it was quite easy to fix the air regulator withoout taking it out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah i found that alot of parts can be wrong or "very" hard to get the real right one. I already bought some brakes years ago on me "old" GT calipers and they were wrong too 😄  I told them too. Even send them pictures...but they said "EBC catalogue has them on my car... So i dont know what their answer will be. I call monday them and let them know that they are really not on my car. If they were they would be already on a car...
    • Welcome to Skyline ownership. Yes, it is entirely possible parts websites get things wrong. There's a whole world of inaccuracies out there when it comes to R34 stuff (and probably 33 and 32). Lots of things that are 'just bolt on, entirely interchangable' aren't. Even between S1 and S2 R34's. Yes they have a GTT item supposedly being 296mm. This is incorrect. I would call whoever you got them from and return them and let them know the GTT actually uses 310mm rotors. Depending on where you got them from your experience and success will obviously vary.
    • Hi...a bit a "development" on the brakes. I spoke to the guys where i get brakes from...and they are saying that 296mm EBC are for R34 GT-T. I then went to their site: https://www.ebcbrakes.com/vehicle/uk-row/NISSAN/Skyline (R34)/ and search for my car(R34 GT 1998 - it has GTT brakes) and it show me this USR1229 number and they are rly 296mm rotors... So now iam rly confused... The rotors i have now on the car are 310mm asi shown... So where is the problem? Does the whole EBC got it wrong or my calipers are just...idk know what?  
    • Oh What the hell, I used to get a "are you sure you want to reply, this thread is XX months old" message. Maybe a software update remove that. My bad.
    • This is a recipe for disaster* Note: Disaster is relative. The thing that often gets lost in threads like this is what is considered acceptable poke and compromise between what one person considers 'good' looks and what someone else does. The quoted specs would sit absurdly outside the guards with the spacers mentioned and need  REALLY thin tyres and a LOT of camber AND rolling the guards to fit. Some people love this. Some people consider this a ruined car. One thing is for certain though, rolling the guards is pretty much mandatory for any 'good' fitment (of either variety). It is often the difference between any fitment remotely close to the guards. "Not to mention the rears were like a mm from hitting the coilovers." I have a question though - This spec is VERY close to what I was planning to buy relative to the inboard suspension - I have an offset measuring tool on the way to confirm it. When you say "like a mm" do you mean literally 1mm? Or 2mm? Cause that's enough clearance for me in the rear :p I actually found the more limiting factor ISNT the coilover but the actual suspension arms. Did you take a look at how close those were?
×
×
  • Create New...