Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok, its getting quite annoying now, because i cant seem to diagnose the problem.

prob: right channel has static (not radio static like but LARGE burst to cracking noise)

i only had 1 acessories line out, so i join them both to the enable amp and auto attenna.

i then tried to seperate the amp/e and auto attena. (amp to acc so when the deck is on the amp is on)

but it still does it!

maybe the pre out are labled wrong? because im running the rca of rear L/R. have yet to try other RCA but i doubt that the prob.

maybe line in is mixed up with one of them.

just now i relise even when its not on radio the auto attenna line give off 12v when the deck is on. ( it should only do this when radio function is selected)

its on of those shitting china dvd deck that i got for my parents, other than that im quite happy with it, play avi too.

any1 might have an idea of what i should try, already open it up and check most of the components seems to be fine in working order.

so far im just running 1 speaker of right front, with no other connection and it works fine. any1 might have an idea of what might be interfering with each other?

thanks in advance

Edited by philta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/173633-interferance-static/
Share on other sites

Umm.. for a start. The antenna doesn't give off 12v. Your "accessories line out" (remote) gives it power. That wire is only supposed to be for telling the amp to turn on. (via the amps "remote" wire). Hooking it up to the antenna control wire will make it go up whenever the headunit is on. (not just on radio)

If the headunit doesn't have a power antenna out wire, you might want to just hook up the antenna wire to a switch and do it manually. It sounds like you've tried to fix that when you were testing.

That out of the way, i'm assuming that your amp runs the speakers and not a sub? If so, swap the RCA input L and R from the amp and see if the noise swaps sides. If it doesn't, then you might have a speaker problem. If it does switch sides, then it could be the RCA cable or headunit.

Swap the speaker outputs on the amp from left to right also... that should test that the amp isn't doing it... and so on.

OH man.. re-reading this... you're using the REAR RCA outputs on the headunit to the amp... and then what? Running FOUR speakers from the amp? If so, use the front RCA output and see if the noise is still there. That will rule the headunit out too!

  RANDY said:
If the headunit doesn't have a power antenna out wire, you might want to just hook up the antenna wire to a switch and do it manually.

The R33's have a switch on the dash for the antenna already. From memory (its been a while since i had audio in my skyline), if you turn your deck on, and are listening to an antenna, you can flick the switch which leaves the antenna down. Correct me if im wrong?!

I'm afraid you're mistaken =-]

The switch on the dash will give you either full-height or half-height when the antenna is already triggered to go up. Pressing "down" on the switch when the antenna is up will only bring it half-down.

It won't do squat when the antenna isn't triggered to move.

ahha ur just as confused as i am randy. LOL

switch is only for full or half lift of the attenna.

ok heres the f**ked updated.

speaker is fine, havent swapped the rca for left to right so wouldnt know. im powering a sub not speakers.

all my speakers run of the deck while the sub is off the amp.

so far ive tested with out the amp and its fine. (in that in mean with an external 12v batt without any rca connections or amp)

ill chuck in my old deck and see how that goes, just pisses me off how i dont know what the prob is.

ah ok... static... there's plenty of threads on this, and no "one" answer to solve them all (as far as i've ever seen).

Someone like Chris Rogers can probably fix it within a day if you put it in his hands, but diagnosing it yourself isn't easy without spares. =-[

I got the same kind of thing through my speakers, and I tried just about EVERYTHING (seriously!) So I changed my plans and just ran my sub from the amp, which is fine.. the alternator whine noise was too high-pitch for the crossover setting i'm using on the amp for my sub.

I got it ONLY on one pair of RCA's (I have two sets for output) If I switched them around, the sound would follow. Swapped cables, swapped amps, repaired burnt-out grounding track on the PCB of my headunit... all didn't help. I think my HU is still bad, but I don't have another one to test it with.

It could be anything from a headunit or amp dead ground (internally) or the RCA cables are faulty. For RCA, this can be a broken grounding somewhere along the way, crappy grounding which introduces noise past the battery or some ECU wiring behind the dash... you name it. =-/

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • You're not the first person that's said that about this car lol. A Touring wagon GT in Spark yellow mica would be the dog's danglies 馃槅 I will keep an eye out for a future purchase for sure. The seats are almost like the OEM Recaros... electric adjustment for fore/aft and tilt movements except reclining.   
    • Yes!! I love these! It's a shame its not the wagon though!   Thank everything that's holy that it doesn't have the interior of the Aussie delivered ones. Those seats are so much nicer.  
    • I'm both sorry and thankful that you do that. 
    • 2001 BE5D Subaru Legacy B4 RSK (3rd gen) EJ208 (pink injector) Twin Turbo 280PS 5-speed manual Full time 4WD "RSK" grade which means all of the above LQC option which means stock rear spoiler  I got it primarily to export to someone outside Japan who was interested. These BE5 Legacy B4 RSKs are going through a bit of a resurgence right know in Japan as they are one of the few cars from the "turbo, manual, RWD/4WD, 280hp gentleman's agreement era" cars that don't require stupid money to purchase. Which for some people might be a good opportunity to get as a base for restoration. If I can't find anyone to purchase it I will certainly be doing that myself over the long term. Why? Because it's properly fast in stock form, handles well enough for a GT sedan, there's still enough aftermarket and (if you can wait a while) genuine part support to make it a restoration candidate (<-- that will only get worse over time so it's a case of do it now or choose get a BL5 4th Gen). Mechanically it's fine, has only 89,200kms on the odometer. The problem with this car is that the body and exterior trims are weathered from at least the last 10 years being parked outdoors. I'm the 3rd owner, the first owner was the one that had it for 14 years and barely drove it, had a low-speed front impact (which didn't damage anything behind the radiator support) and got it fixed and sold it. The 2nd owner put most of the kms on it and parked it outside for the last 10 years, hence the door rubbers have seen better days but if you overlook those cosmetic details, it presents pretty nicely. There is some minor rust on the LH rear wheel arch which I'll have looked at too at some stage.  Also as you'd expect from a car this age, the clear top coat is gone, leaving a satin finish on the roof.  Mechanically it's fine (as you would expect from a car with less than 100K kms) but the steering does feel slightly vague around the centre position at higher speeds. So first on the list is to get the steering rack bushes looked at. There's also the Lock button on the remote which doesn't work, but the Open button does.... it means that the anti-theft system thinks it's always open? It seems like if you open the car and don't start the engine within 3 mins or so the anti-theft kicks in again without any beeps or signals. So if you got to start it after that, it won't. You have to push the open button again. That's how I understand it anyway. Just a small irritation but not a big problem to sort out. There's only one mod, the Wangan SPL muffler. Just a tad louder than stock. It's a really good mod for those who don't want to wake the neighbours but still want to hear a more prominent unequal length header EJ20 sound. Anyway I hope to get all those things done eventually, that is unless someone wanted to import it to their country from Japan (where I live). I'm open for negotiations as I really would like a Skyline... but this will definitely suffice in the meantime 馃檪 *Disclaimer: This is how I picked it up from the dealer, minus the stuff on the back seat. I haven't cleaned the engine bay or done a thorough exterior clean, aside from spray painting the wipers. 
    • Wow, even with the Audi logo centre caps. I love OEM wheel mismatches. 
  • Create New...