Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I know the roll cage is probably the the single most expensive purchase to go racing, but after that it's all down hill....

Once the cage is in and you have the other safety items installed, you can go racing. To grater belief you don't need to have the car as fast as she can be or have new race rubber or the latest "go fast bits" ect..ect.. JUST GO RACING. Half the thrill is actually being out there and giving it a go. Learn the craft, become a better driver, have a s%#t load of fun and then... When time and budget permits, take the next step.

Life is too short! I have stuff all money to go racing, so does Briggsie, Perry, Maxfeild..... The list goes on. You simply don't need a V8 SUPERCAR budget to live the dream.

JUST DO IT! While you're still living and breathing.....

If only it was that simple though...

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

  • 3 weeks later...
I hope to run my Gtst next year. it's only got a new front mount, greddy plenum, power fc, 3inch exhaust and a roll cage. should there be anything else i should put in?

You will need an approved harness, window net, extinguisher, battery isolator with remote pull wire so it can be operated from outside the car,

race suit, plus your car will need to log booked with cams, plus a few other things CAMS website has a detailed list of requirements for circuit racing. For a good look in you could have a go at regularity, usually run by the MGCC at Symmons and the requirements are only same as running a club day I believe.

(Rocket_Rosco @ 3 Jul 2007, 06:37 PM)]

I know the roll cage is probably the the single most expensive purchase to go racing, but after that it's all down hill....

Once the cage is in and you have the other safety items installed, you can go racing. To grater belief you don't need to have the car as fast as she can be or have new race rubber or the latest "go fast bits" ect..ect.. JUST GO RACING. Half the thrill is actually being out there and giving it a go. Learn the craft, become a better driver, have a s%#t load of fun and then... When time and budget permits, take the next step.

Life is too short! I have stuff all money to go racing, so does Briggsie, Perry, Maxfeild..... The list goes on. You simply don't need a V8 SUPERCAR budget to live the dream.

JUST DO IT! While you're still living and breathing.....

amen to that :sorcerer:

Well that means im only $14995 short :D

thats cheap, its cost me more than that for a dirty old pos hq, i wish i hadnt started hq, i would be in a skyline :rofl:

do you need a window net for TSS? I notice that not all of the cars had window nets last round.

Yeah you do a window net (only Historic Touring Cars are exempt, Targa class used to be but no longer), they cost a bit over 100 with quick release brackets if too lazy to make some up!

My cage for the RX7 will look like this. Allow $3500 + about $200 per bar extra. And thats the reduced price if you provide the car stripped and without glass fitted. Painting and padding is also extra.

post-5400-1185255618_thumb.jpg

Yeah you do a window net (only Historic Touring Cars are exempt, Targa class used to be but no longer), they cost a bit over 100 with quick release brackets if too lazy to make some up!

My cage for the RX7 will look like this. Allow $3500 + about $200 per bar extra. And thats the reduced price if you provide the car stripped and without glass fitted. Painting and padding is also extra.

post-5400-1185255618_thumb.jpg

Wheres the best place to get the net from stu?

Im not sure if any of you remember Leo's R33 GTR V-spec from up north, but the guy that built that is doing my cage. Stu, He's currenty putting the finishing touch's to his series 6 RX7 too.

Im not sure if any of you remember Leo's R33 GTR V-spec from up north, but the guy that built that is doing my cage. Stu, He's currenty putting the finishing touch's to his series 6 RX7 too.

Yeah I spoke to Spurry about mine, still debating if I want to drag it up and back on a trailer though!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
×
×
  • Create New...