Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Get every dollar out of the stock one.

its not worth taking the risk cos with this view, it might srsly end up costing you more dollars than you bargained for. If your going to do at some point, why not just do it now, cos at 280 rwhp, you'd be pretty much close to maxing it up. Sometimes you cant even notice have much it is leaning out. i'd say just change it, before you do long term damage

Edited by moonus

As rednecks would say 'don'ts fix it till it's brokes'

But seriously should be fine, and you don't want to put fuel pump in unless you really have to... It's a stinky c**t of job.

Buy a fuel pressure gauge only $69 (defi style) from just jap for fuel pump insurance + you can rice your cabin up more.

I reckon change it. Its not worth you taking the risk till it dies, it will leave you strandard in the middle of no where.

If you have the cash just buy it, there is no harm in changing it. It may last you another year, or maybe it will last another day. Who's to say when it will go?

At least with a new one, you will know its got a long life a head of it, and its not going to clonk out any time soon.

If your planning on getting more power out of it, why not upgrade it. The stock one didnt cost you anything anyways..

You could pick up a replacement pump, like a BOSCH 040 cheap enough.

Buy a fuel pressure gauge only $69 (defi style)...

But $70 is like half the price of a fuel pump. Later on if he buys another fuel pump, when it does die, it will cost him more in the long run. Might as well spend the cash and upgrade now..

Just my thoughts!.. :D

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
I reckon change it. Its not worth you taking the risk till it dies, it will leave you strandard in the middle of no where.

If you have the cash just buy it, there is no harm in changing it. It may last you another year, or maybe it will last another day. Who's to say when it will go?

At least with a new one, you will know its got a long life a head of it, and its not going to clonk out any time soon.

If your planning on getting more power out of it, why not upgrade it. The stock one didnt cost you anything anyways..

You could pick up a replacement pump, like a BOSCH 040 cheap enough.

But $70 is like half the price of a fuel pump. Later on if he buys another fuel pump, when it does die, it will cost him more in the long run. Might as well spend the cash and upgrade now..

Just my thoughts!.. :D

Thanks,

Abu

Where are these $140 fuel pumps you speak of... my genuine bosch cost $220 delivered. A fuel pressure gauge is a good idea all the same, as if fuel pressure drops the afr's lean out and cause damage.

Many cheap after market fuel pumps break or seize shortly after installation due to poor installation, factory faults with pumps, and especailly with 040's the bottom filter screen sucks up crap and reduces possible flow which burns out the pump.

I reckon change it. Its not worth you taking the risk till it dies, it will leave you strandard in the middle of no where.

If you have the cash just buy it, there is no harm in changing it. It may last you another year, or maybe it will last another day. Who's to say when it will go?

At least with a new one, you will know its got a long life a head of it, and its not going to clonk out any time soon.

If your planning on getting more power out of it, why not upgrade it. The stock one didnt cost you anything anyways..

You could pick up a replacement pump, like a BOSCH 040 cheap enough.

But $70 is like half the price of a fuel pump. Later on if he buys another fuel pump, when it does die, it will cost him more in the long run. Might as well spend the cash and upgrade now..

Just my thoughts!.. :D

Thanks,

Abu

By your reasoning you should sell your r32 and get a new car because it could die at any time.

keep the stock fuel pump, its still working, no reason to change it and spend money now rather than later.

If it dies in the future, change it then. It'll take you 2 hours max, and usually they slowly die rather than just stopping working all of a sudden, so you should have plenty on notice before it goes.

i say stick with your stock pump untill it starts to die, or you decide to do more upgrading. atleast you know it is working. you may get a new pump and it may be faulty straight out of the box, so you would be driving around thinking everything is fine and then end up causing more damage. if you do get a new pump installed i would put it back on the dyno to see if the mixtures have been affected. ucd15r33 put his car on the dyno 2 days after a new fuel pump and the mixtures went from in the 13's to low 10's, so upgrading his pump was a good thing. but if your pump is good and the new one is dodgy it could go the other way.

I didnt say $70 was half the price of a fuel pump, I said its like half he price. Although I have bought a original BOSCH 040 new in the past for $160, which for arguments sake is almost double $70..

You could spend $180 and get a BOSCH 040 brand new, theres one on calaisturbo at the moment. Original BOSCH too, with receipt.

All I was saying was if your after a bit more reliability, and peace of mind you might as well change it. Its a matter of $200 max and about 2 hours work. He obviously has some concerns, hence this thread?

The stock fuel pump would be a least what, 14 years old by now?

Thanks,

Abu

By your reasoning you should sell your r32 and get a new car because it could die at any time.

Not even going to justify that with an answer.

But according to your signature you seemed to have recently upgraded to GTR fuel pump from standard?

Any reason for that, since your car is only making 155RWKW, which is plenty for the standard fuel pump to handle..

Just curoius.

Thanks,

Abu

Edited by abu
All I was saying was if your after a bit more reliability, and peace of mind you might as well change it. Its a matter of $200 max and about 2 hours work. He obviously has some concerns, hence this thread?

The stock fuel pump would be a least what, 14 years old by now?

Agreed

first of all what car is it, i may have missed something, if it is a GTR then it should be fine, however if not i would change it, yes you have had the car tuned and all was good but i can tell you the harder you push the pump the faster they fail and you wont notice it leaning out all that much until it is too late, changing a fuel pump is an easy job especially in a nissan most local mechanic will only charge you around $50-80 or you can do it your self in a half hour. the cost of a new pump is not much and is good insurance

Not even going to justify that with an answer.

But according to your signature you seemed to have recently upgraded to GTR fuel pump from standard?

Any reason for that, since your car is only making 155RWKW, which is plenty for the standard fuel pump to handle..

Just curoius.

Thanks,

Abu

Yeah fair enough, I guess I was just trying to make a point that you can't always go around fixing things just because they might break in the future.

My fuel pump (r32 gtst) lasted 14 years and 175,000kms. I discovered my car was running lean so i replaced it with a GTR pump.

So IMHO if you know your pump is providing enough fuel, its not worth replacing it.

I guess if you want the extra peace of mind, upgrade it. But make sure you get it dynoed after to ensure the new pump is operating as expected.

Cheers,

Rhett

When my stock pump started to die it went from nice solid afr's to running dangerously lean within 6months.

If its old, high km's and showing that its a little lazy.. Replace it; not worth the ringlands.

Your tuner will know what you pump is good for and if its lazy or not.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...