Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey i installed a BLITZ BOV and now i am only boosting to 5 PSI but if i use the stock BOV it works fine? i know the BOV is not fualty because i have used it before and on another car, could it be that i put it futher down the pipe then the stock bov? i welded the flange onto the pipe near the FMIC so that i would get done everytime the TASK FORCE lidted my bonet? or could it be that the vaccume pressure isnt strong enough to reach the distance or the lines i am using are crimping under pressure because they are not strong enough?

Any help would be good :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/174668-installed-a-bov-not-boosting/
Share on other sites

no Air leaks, like i said if i turn the stock BOV on and just disconect the Vac line to the Atmo BOV (thats hidden) everything works fine, so i realy dont know what the go is, maybe loss of pressure from the longer distance but i have seen alot of other cars with the BOV hidden and they seem to bost right

so you still have the stock bov on at the same time as the blitz one?

and you are just disconnecting the vacuum line to the stock bov?

that's your problem.

it will open up..

you have to remove the stock bov and block off the vacuum line, and the other 2 holes for bov and bov return.

then connect vaccum line to blitz show off valve and it will boost and everyone will look at you and go "sik mate sik"

if you take the stock bov off (or any bov for that matter) and jam your thumb up it's arse (so to speak), you will be able to push the piston in by hand.

now.

with aftrmarket bovs, you can adjust the piston tension.

by making it tighter, you make it harder to open.

but the stock bov just sits shut against the hole.

not much is required to make it open.

when on the car, you have air under the bov, and air in the vacuum line on top.

So. at idle, your boost gause will show a vacuum reading or some sort.

that means that the bov will be shut as it has x amount of air pressure (vacuum) in the intercooler pipe under it and the vacuum line above it.. so no pressure means it stays shut.

get on boost and all this pressure builds up under it and tries to open it.. but the vacuum lne on top is also providing the same amount of pressure as it is seeing boost from the the manifold.

so the bov stays shut.

you get off the gas and step on the clutch to chane gears and if you notice your boost gauge, it shoots waaaay down the vaccum side.

at this very moment, all the boost your turbo was creating is still pressured up in the intercooler pipes.

But the vacuum line above the bov is seeing vacuum (as per your boost gauge) from the manifold so it is trying to SUCK the piston up.

this vacuum line sucking and intercooler pipes filled with pressure opens the bov and pssh comes out.

NOW.

If you have disconnected the vacuum line on top..

what happens?

you accelerate, create boost, boost builds up in the intercooler pipes, pushes against the bov piston.

since there is no line above it showing the same boost, it "IS ABLE" to push the bov open.

and 5psi is enough to push it open and there is your problem.

and end of my essay

solution.

remove blitz blow job valve.

sell to some ricer.

fit stock bov and all lines and enjoy a problem free car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So yes. All of them. Something like 98% of all fuel in the USA has 10% ethanol: https://afdc.energy.gov/fuels/ethanol-fuel-basics It's labelled as like, AKI, 87, 91, 93 with an E10 or E5 or E15 label on the pump. At a certain point, it's not just "E10" instead of 91. It is 91, 95, 98, and all of them have 10% Ethanol in them. You can also get E85 and E30 which is why you do see some people rolling around with E30 tunes in them.
    • Thanks for the response. This is an 04 EP3 Type R. JDM spec. Fairly certain they're just basic BC racing coils. I do plan to keep as the ride quality on stock I've been told is pretty meh given Sydney roads. If I were to go down that avenue, does NSW require them to be a certain spec (close to original) etc?
    • Should have asked what is the car?
    • I've had two super conflicting experiences with blue slips. My 30 year old E39 waltzed through with no issues but my brother in law was knocked back on 12 y/o 3 series due to wiper blades and some cracking in a control arm bush.  What kind of coil overs? Do you want to keep them after?  If it was me I'd get some dirt cheap shocks and springs from eBay or scumtree. Not ideal but will get you over the line and might even be less than $1k.
    • Hey guys,  Way back when (about 15yrs plus), I picked up a beautiful set of Tein 'Super Racing Spec Circuit Master RE' coilovers from Russman. I have legit never fitted them to my car, as it was garaged indefinitely while i bought a house Yada Yada. They look brand new! Anyway its time to pick up where I left off, and have started doing some khanacross and am booked in for a hill climb next month. The car has some hard af Nismo shocks in ATM, which has me wanting to upgrade again, and now I am left wondering if it's worth having these teins rebuilt? I think they where an ok shock back then, but how do they compare to what's on the market now?  Shockworks/mca are 2800+, and I am sure they are great. But if I can have these rebuilt and be better than, say, a set of bc's for around the cost of bc's, I would be happy with the performance v cost trade off.  If they are considered outdated and rubbish these days, so be it, I'll put them on the shelf and be happy to look at the pretty green colour while I save for the SW/MCA option. Grateful for your thoughts on the matter, and suggestions on who could do the rebuild if it's a worthwhile pursuit.  cheers, Rowdy. 
×
×
  • Create New...