Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I am too busy studying this year and may be most of next year so someone might as well enjoy this. I will be building a larger RB engine when I have more time.

Engine was built in Japan and came with a R32 Vspec around 4 years ago. So the engine is pretty much an R33RB with unknown forged internals and capacity. The car has a lot of Mines bolt on stuff when it came over so it could have been built by them (but dont take my words for this). Whoever built this engine is GREAT. The cylinders compressions are all good and there is absolutely no blowby oil in the catch can regardless of drag or track activities. Engine does not use oil at all as well.

Car has only been used mainly for weekend activities. Best time at Willowbank is 11.4@126mph and QR Sprint is 57.1 with RE55 and aggressive cambers of 4- in the front and 3- in the rear. I've only been to QR and Willowbank about 3 times each with the car. I think I can go faster at the drag if I reduce the camber, unload some weight and use drag radials but I have not had much time this year.

All of the tuning and work was done by Willall Racing, Martin Donnon (when I was still in Adelaide), Tune and Matty Spry (since I moved to QLD). Engine has been conservatively tuned with pair of T518Z 10cm at 18-19psi for power graphs below. Castrol Edge synthetic oil is religiously changed before and sometimes after every track work too.

-HKS 264 intake and exhaust cams

-HKS cam gears

-1.5 ATS carbon LSD This was only installed late last year and only been at QR sprint twice. Costed me around $2000.

-Trust front diff back cover. Holds an extra 1 L of oil

-Nissan water pump and Trust belt was replaced late last year

-Engine may have after market baffle plate because I never have any oil surge problem.

-Oil pump is unknown but what ever it is used on this engine I am happy to used it again with my next engine. Oil pump and engine survived many redline (conservative 8.5krpm) launches at the drag.

Asking price is a bargain $9k.

The new nissan water pump, Trust timing belt, cams gears, cams and lsd will easily cost you close to half of this asking price.

Engine is still in car and currently located in Brisbane

Who ever buy this engine please open it up, refresh it and let me know what clearances and parts were used. It is amazing. I love to be able to do that now but got to invest into my study atm :P

I can include the trust t518z turbo, BDI fuel rail, injectors, nismo fuel regulator and the Djetro map for extra cost. I've spent a lot of money on the djetro map for full throttle, high way cruise and midrange power tuning. Engine refresh can be arranged too. Reluctant sale so serious buyer only ......please no joyriders.

med_gallery_3884_1862_148600.jpg

med_gallery_3884_1862_116078.jpg

I will post some dyno graph up soon

  • 7 months later...

Edit: Turbo are T517Z with 10cm2 housing. Engine is out of the car and turbo can be supplied with the engine. Trust front diff cover has been replaced with the original cover. The engine is in SA atm. Sorry for any inconvenience.

Edited by 9krpm

That's the next thing I will be doing once I finish off my current R32 project. I am planning to take the engine apart and freshen it up too but that will depend on the left over fund from this project.

The turbo are on the car atm. I will part the turbo when I can find suitable replacement soonish....hopefully next few weeks Sorry for any confusion.

The engine came out of a R32 gtr that is used mostly for track day and paper weight in the shed/workshop most other days. The engine is currently in a workshop in Adelaide. I can organise anything ranging from a complete overhaul for this engine. I can replace the stock parts too if the buyer is not keen on these after market parts. I have offers for these parts but keen to sell them with the engine coz I am working in Brissy and don't have time to dissassemble them.

  • 2 weeks later...

The turbs will prob be around 2-2.5 large but will depend on how well the new turbs work on the new engine. It's not for sale atm.

I am selling the engine at this stage. Anyone want to make an offer on the engine?

If not I may recondition it and keep it as a spare

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...