Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

They both run the exact same engine etc and i think there is only a 40kg difference between the two models????? but i could be corrected on that (do a search!) so fuel consumption is very unlikely to change. Note that ive seen RB25's running terrible and only get 200kms to the tank while mine gets closer to 400kms. So its more about mods/tune and the engine itself.

Im unsure with other companies but Just cars (from memory) charged me more for my NA r32 coupe than they do for my r33 4 door. There could be different reasons for this but i always suspected having 4 doors helped.

I cant imagine the handling being any different between the two models considering they use the same setup. But then again i cant fully comment since i have not had a coupe on a track. Chance are if your going to the track your not going to run stock suspension anyway so you'll be free to set up the car to handle how ever you want!

If your going to start modifying the car stock comparisions start becoming irrelevant anyway.

4 door manuals are a bit on the rarer side which is good you have found one (im assuming) but if you have to make the choice between the two the BIG questions i asked myself were- "will i need the extra room in the back" "is having only two doors going to be a hassle" "is 4 doors going to cause my car to become a taxi for my mates" "do i want something more sporty looking (coupe)" "do i want something a bit more sleeperish"

Nice to see someone else come to the same conslusion as me, I've just signed up to import a 4 door too... plenty of good manual ones in Japan, you'll have your pick. Easy to get one landed/complied for under $15k.

Insurance will be just as bad, especially if you're planning mods.. have been struggling to find the right cover for mine (and I work in insurance!).

..and if you really cared about fuel consumption, you wouldn't be buying one!

Nice to see someone else come to the same conslusion as me, I've just signed up to import a 4 door too... plenty of good manual ones in Japan, you'll have your pick. Easy to get one landed/complied for under $15k.

Insurance will be just as bad, especially if you're planning mods.. have been struggling to find the right cover for mine (and I work in insurance!).

..and if you really cared about fuel consumption, you wouldn't be buying one!

After living in the UK for 9 years and paying $2.50 a litre for petrol there, fuel prices here will be dirt cheap in comparison :w00t:

I think the 4 door is much more practical for general use especially if you have a family and it looks like it'll be pretty handy on the track as well. I'm looking at something that will be landed and complied for around $12K, not the best looker but the handling side of things had been done. Not exactly going to worry about it when the kids throw up in it!

I'm thinking about heading down the third party fire and theft insurance route. How much will that cost? I can't see how anyone can warrant paying $2K for a car that is only worth $12K. I'm going to put money away instead of paying the extra insurance.

post-39849-1183614404_thumb.jpg

Not the best looker? Check this one out.. I was tossing up between this and the one I got - you can make them look damn good!

Be careful with TPFT though, there are some pitfalls - would always recommend to all to get comprehensive insurance.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...