Jump to content
SAU Community

Minimising Wheelspin

R33GOD
 Share

Recommended Posts

R33GOD Grand Master

R33GOD

Posted
Posted

As some know i have a r33 gtst series 2 with 209 rwk and the wheelspin really annoys me. i want to change the diff ratio to a lower one. stand me if im correct but i think my one has a 4.36 ratio? and i think the r34gtt has a 4.11? what i want to know is, is the r34 gtt diff centre interchangable with my current one? I want one that fits straight in with no modifications, can anyone sort this out for me, even if they know something else that is interchangable also and that will handle more power if i decide to. I also want it for the better top end and lower rev range whilst on the freeway at 100kph.

many thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/175701-minimising-wheelspin/
Share on other sites
R33GOD Grand Master

R33GOD

Posted
  • Author
Posted
I ran a 270rwkw street tune for a while.

225 tyres, hardly an issue with wheelspin.

I'd be looking at the suspension, quality of the tyres, diff condition and driving style :)

im getting a set of coilovers within the next 6 months, for now i just want to change the diff as i drive alot on the freeway and the constant high revving annoys me lol

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
As some know i have a r33 gtst series 2 with 209 rwk and the wheelspin really annoys me. i want to change the diff ratio to a lower one. stand me if im correct but i think my one has a 4.36 ratio? and i think the r34gtt has a 4.11? what i want to know is, is the r34 gtt diff centre interchangable with my current one? I want one that fits straight in with no modifications, can anyone sort this out for me, even if they know something else that is interchangable also and that will handle more power if i decide to. I also want it for the better top end and lower rev range whilst on the freeway at 100kph.

many thanks :thumbsup:

The R33's run a 4.11:1 diff ratio; the R32's run the 4.363.

Also. A higher diff ratio is numerically lower i.e 3.7:1, a lower diff ratio is numberically higher i.e 4.3:1.

Yes a higher ratio diff will help prevent wheel spin but it does make the car feel like it takes longer to come up on boost when toodling around then mashing the throttle from a low rpm.

First gear was much more enjoyable and usable however the trade off in the snap hard on boost in second and third gear simply was not worth it.

100km/h cruising speed did drop the rev's a little but unless you drop to a 3.7:1 or there abouts its really not that noticable.

3.7:1 will have your 0-100 times increase noticably. So don't do it. I have and went straight back to a 4.3.

If the engine noise gets to you at 100km/h shove in another muffler just after the cat.

Traction, you shouldn't have issues with only 209rwkw; as others have suggested definitely take a good look at your diff, suspension and tyres. Apart from tyres which is obvious the diff's worn VLSD is usually the culprit.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

One thing that prevents them being 100% interchangable is the half shafts bolt pattern.

R33 is 5bolt (1x5), R34 is 6 bolt? and S15 I can't remember. :thumbsup:

Unsure on spline; I'm almost certian if the R34 is 6bolt it will also have the larger spline.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

Again... If its to reduce wheel spin then your barking up the wrong tree especially with only 209rwkw which is bugger all.

If its 'only' to drop rev's at 100km/h then yes.. BUT acceleration rate will suffer as a result.

The J30 diff isn't a simple drop in. I would expect the pumpkin to be the same as the R33 but the half shafts are different.

You will have to drop your diff center in to the J30 pumpkin and then slide in your half shafts; or grab the crown and pinion from the J30 and have it fitted to your diff housing.

Either way your up for around $300 ish for the J30 diff and another $300ish to get it working. So all up $600 ish + oil.

You really are better off putting that $600 towards a good mechanical. If you want a good 100km/h cruiser buy a family wagon. :thumbsup:

R33GOD Grand Master

R33GOD

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Again... If its to reduce wheel spin then your barking up the wrong tree especially with only 209rwkw which is bugger all.

If its 'only' to drop rev's at 100km/h then yes.. BUT acceleration rate will suffer as a result.

The J30 diff isn't a simple drop in. I would expect the pumpkin to be the same as the R33 but the half shafts are different.

You will have to drop your diff center in to the J30 pumpkin and then slide in your half shafts; or grab the crown and pinion from the J30 and have it fitted to your diff housing.

Either way your up for around $300 ish for the J30 diff and another $300ish to get it working. So all up $600 ish + oil.

You really are better off putting that $600 towards a good mechanical. If you want a good 100km/h cruiser buy a family wagon. :thumbsup:

i already have a family wagon lmao!!! lol. its more for rev drop than wheelspin. what is the j30 diff?

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted

J30 is a type of nissan just like the R32 R33 etc

As I said.. before, a 3.9:1 won't drop 100km/h rpm all that noticably.

The rolling dia of your 265/35 18's is slightly larger than stock so at 100km/h you will already be reving slightly lower AND your speedo will be slightly out.

At 100km/h with your 4.11:1 diff ratio, 5th gear ratio and 265/35/18's the engine will be ticking over at :

4.1 ratio - 2551rpm

3.9:1 ratio - 2421rpm

3.7:1 ratio - 2297rpm

4.3:1 ratio that is shorter you'll be at 2708rpm

If you ran factory spec rolling dia (631.90) tyres (205/55/16) at 100km/h with stock ratio's etc you'd be ticking over at 2591rpm. So with your larger tyres you've dropped 40rpm off your 100km/h cruising speed.

Also the stock tacho reads slightly higher than it really is. :thumbsup:

So you have to ask yourself... Is 100rpmish really worth the slower/duller acceleration? I've done it and I definitely do not think so; enough so that I had the diff out a couple of weeks later and the std diff ratio shoved back in it.

Cubes Grand Master

Cubes

Posted
Posted
thanks mate. i heard the s13 turbo auto model has a 3.9 ratio and fits straight in? correct me if im wrong

I added to my previous post with some figures. :thumbsup:

The S13 diff isn't a drop in due to its different housing. So again you will be forced to swap the ratio from that diff in to your housing. Of which will blow out ot $600 odd by the time you buy the diff and have it fitted.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Latest Posts

    • Dylannn
      For Sale Haltech Elite Plug n Play

      By Dylannn · Posted

      Hey   ive gone for a terminated harness on my build so selling brand new unused and unopened piggy back harness  https://www.haltech.com/product/ht-141357-elite-2000-2500-nissan-skyline-r32-33-r34-gt-r/ Located Bathurst NSW   price $600 + postage     
    • drifter17a
      Rb25 trigger kit and timing misalignment

      By drifter17a · Posted

      The trigger kit I have is similar to the one in the link below. While going through Facebook, I saw someone else mention a similar issue, and I’m starting to think this could be related to the crank gear itself. I understand these parts are CNC machined, but maybe some earlier versions or individual pieces might have slight inconsistencies—it just doesn’t look right in my case. https://www.facebook.com/share/16an8evZd9/?mibextid=wwXIfr I originally installed the crank gear using the thin OEM washer, but as shown in the attached photo, the timing belt walks very close to the edge. When I tried using a Nitto washer—which is thicker—it actually made the issue worse. The belt walks about 1mm off the front edge, which raises more concern about alignment.   I’ve gone through the full process of elimination:   The tensioner pulley and bolt are brand new and installed correctly. The bolt isn’t bent and is oriented properly. The back of the tensioner and the idler pulley are clean and seated correctly. The idler sits slightly more forward, which I understand is due to its design. I’ve experimented with both tight and loose belt tension, but it makes no difference. As soon as the engine runs, the belt immediately walks forward again—even if I reset it beforehand.     At this point, I’m considering replacing the crank gear with your Race Version 1 (12-tooth), but before purchasing, I wanted to ask:   Are you aware of any alignment issues when using this gear? Would this gear help keep the belt aligned correctly, or could the walking still occur? Does it work with a standard missing-tooth crank and rear washer? Is there any specific crank setup or install procedure required?     For reference, I’m not using a front washer, as the PRP crank gear seems to replace the need for one.   Looking forward to your advice.
    • PranK
      ATCC Amaroo Park 1987

      By PranK · Posted

      Yep, looks that way. Never driven an E30 or R31 so I can only imagine  
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Rb25 trigger kit and timing misalignment

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Post up some photos
    • GTSBoy
      WTB RB25 Gearbox NSW / central west

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yuh, My new R34 box is sitting on the workshop floor (in its large shipping box, which is a nice thing on its own), along with a front plate to convert to push clutch. There was no way I was interested in rebuilding my existing one. Was only partly interested in the risk of buying a used one. But, if you want a 2nd hander, I can point you to one in/near Melbourne at least. @Komdotkom has one that should be in good enough condition to be usable. I don't think it's in a for sale thread, you'd have to message him. @redzedhas one that definitely needs a rebuild.
×
×
  • Create New...