Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I added to my previous post with some figures. :thumbsup:

The S13 diff isn't a drop in due to its different housing. So again you will be forced to swap the ratio from that diff in to your housing. Of which will blow out ot $600 odd by the time you buy the diff and have it fitted.

thats all i want. drop in the centre ratio into my housing :thumbsup:

Edited by R33GOD

Darren,

Another Darren with his R31 470rwkw here in Adelaide has played with a few different diff ratio's. With the auto. He settled on the VLT's 3.45:1. He said it heaps a shit loads with wheelspin. 165km/h at the top end of third is not that crash hot.

Also.. Gave you a wave in a red vn Dungadoor last Sat I think it was; south end of diag road.

Darren,

Another Darren with his R31 470rwkw here in Adelaide has played with a few different diff ratio's. With the auto. He settled on the VLT's 3.45:1. He said it heaps a shit loads with wheelspin. 165km/h at the top end of third is not that crash hot.

Also.. Gave you a wave in a red vn Dungadoor last Sat I think it was; south end of diag road.

yea i thought it was you.

The other darren has a rigid rear end so that doesnt help me much.

  • 3 weeks later...

When I originally purchased my car it dyno'd at 189rwkw and would light up the tyres a little too easily. This was great fun for the first couple of weeks but it was getting ridiculous after that. At the same time I was also suspect of the wheel alignment as there was slight evidence of uneven tyre wear.

Decided to get a full 4 wheel alignment done and it transformed the rear end completely. Now you need to make a much bigger effort to break loose the rear tyres on take off.

The diff cradle bushes can have a huge effect on this also, can't they? Have you checked to see whether yours are worn or could they have been replaced with aftermarket bushes at some stage which may offer less compliance and a greater tendency to break traction (hence the reason that drifters use them)?

These are a couple of cheap things to check and/or change if neccesary which both can have a dramatic effect on your rear end grip.

Cheers, Mike

i run brand new 265/35/18 inch hankooks mate :huh:

moreso for reducing revs at 100kph on the freeway

some better tyres, a decent alignment and maybe some pineapples to adjust drive angle you will be sweet. Cats drift car with 280rwkw (old SR20) with decent 235's would pull throught the gears with minimal wheelspin.... its all in the contact pactch and the quality of tyre providing that contact patch... forget diff ratio's... even with 4.37 we had awesome grip... so with only 209rwkw and 4.1's you should be laughing.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...