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The AVCR is actually a really really good boost controller.

The problem is they are not super easy to setup and this is where a lot of people come across spiking problems.

As with all boost increases it should be setup on a dyno.

I had a blitz sbcid ebc and on the road also found that difficult to setup correct as to prevent spiking it requires a few full rpm rev from just off idle through to redline in fourth gear. So not exactly possible. :S

All self duty cycle learning type boost controllers will have this problem. Get them tuned on a dyno and they are all good.

yeh was close to getting a black avcr but i got a blitz sbc i-d III the guy at auto barn talked me into it lol good 800 spent get it installed sat then i need to take it somewhere to get it tuned ayn recomendations for somewhere up north?

http://www.blitz.com.au/SBCiD.html

Edited by GME_OVA R34

See how you go with it in manual mode; if you are dropping boost at higher revs throw it in auto mode and have it do its boost curve learn thing in 4th gear.

The one issue with auto mode is its prone to spiking IF you don't load it up enough from a low rpm i.e 4th gear.

The spiking will occur when you put your foot down and hold it up a steep hill at lowish revs.

Dropping boost depends on the boost your running vs what the actuator is rated at, how good your exhaust is and if the turbo is nearing its flow limits.

Manual mode offers the best boost response. If you have a keen seat of the pants feel you will notice the manual mode has much sharper response. THe issue with manual mode is your not able to dial in more duty cycle at higher rev's; its a fixed value.

Auto mode alters the duty cycle through its learning. :)

I prefer the AVCR due to its fandangled features; which really are not needed unless your making a good whack of power i.e different boost levels for each gear.

yeh was close to getting a black avcr but i got a blitz sbc i-d III the guy at auto barn talked me into it lol good 800 spent get it installed sat then i need to take it somewhere to get it tuned ayn recomendations for somewhere up north?

http://www.blitz.com.au/SBCiD.html

y should anyone bother recommending you a workshop when you'll go somewhere that ppl tell u not to? Oh ye its school holidays isn't it!

I've got the Blitz SBS ID III also, I've had no spiking issues what so ever. Just for a start try using auto mode duty of 30 and whatever psi you want to run, don't over do it!! i teach mine by doing a 2,3,4 gear run. once the L disappears from the top of the screen record the same type run and check for spiking on the boost graph. If there is none up the duty 5 or so and repeat untill you get a little spiking and then back it back off. I think mine ended up being around 50 duty.

If you're after even better boost response you can use the scramble function and set a manual level for the first few seconds and then switch to the auto mode to prevent drop off at high rpm.

When you're using manual mode the instructions say not to go over 15duty with an actuator type wastegate.

There is a good tread by Col-gtsx but that was a long time ago, do a search for it and also for english instructions as there are some around somewhere, maybe try the Blitz site also.

Also, for your next purchase try www.nengun.com

cheers for the help boyz instaling it tomorw just need a tune atm ive dyno my car at 160 kw standard the dude said i need a new ecu as im losing power in the top end or something like that but yeh see how we go once its boosted :)

Will be handy when you ramp up the boost. :)

Mines close to being finished, it will be very interesting to see how peak power differs.

Your running on regular 98 pulp? std cams?

Yeh runnin bp ultimate, and will have tomei poncams in then 256 deg aswell as splitfires so should be very interesting

I use the Blitz DSBC Spec-R and have had no problems with it. Works great and super easy to set up, only two things to set. :)

Dynosmall-1.jpg

Have another dyno sheet of it holding 20psi the same, but havn't got it scanned.

It doesn't have anywhere near the features of the ACVR or the SBC-iDIII though, sometimes I wish it did have those other things, but it's pretty rare that I do. All I ask of the controller is that it keeps the wastegate closed for as long as possible and holds boost steadily. This one does that, and it cost me $300 2nd hand :)

Edited by salad

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