Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have a set of 4 brake rotors for sale which came off a 1995 Nissan Skyline R33 RB25DET.

* My reason for selling is I have just upgraded to the new DBA Rotors.

* These are the original stock rotors which have done 72,000km.

* They were last machined about 5mths ago and are in good condition.

* Pics available at:

http://skylines.pnc.com.au/pics/ben/rotor/rotor7.jpg

http://skylines.pnc.com.au/pics/ben/rotor/rotor8.jpg

* I have no idea what they are worth and im not too technically minded (as far as what they will/won't fit) so go easy...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17685-r33-stock-brake-rotors-rb25det/
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I bought the DBA's in the recent group buy and i think they cost me like $900ish fitted for front n back.

I haven't noticed any difference with them for a couple of reasons...

I only did 300km on the new DBA's before hitting them way -too- hard at a trackday resulting in glazing them and giving em a wash in brake fluid :P . So after that trackday I got new fluid put in and my brake pedal just doesnt even feel normal let alone better from the DBA's so i think i need to get them looked at again (in about 2wks before i hit the next trackday).

Really though i dont think in normal street driving you will feel a difference i bought them purely for that little bit extra at trackdays (which im yet to notice because of above and coz my tyres are bald).

  • 4 weeks later...

You'd have to measure them with calipers to get any indication of how much they're worth. Near-new I would say they'd be worth maybe $200 the pair machined (machined because without doing that there's no way to determine their thickness with any accuracy), or if worn down below the halfway point maybe $100 the pair? New rotors are 30mm thick, and the run-out point is 28mm.

Unfortunately there's no way to tell how much they've been worn just by stating the odometer reading. The amount of wear they've had will be largely dependant on driving style and type of pads used, and for all you know they could be the 2nd or 3rd set of rotors used on the car (entirely possible if the car had done any trackwork in Japan).

If you've been running the Ultimates on them since they got machined 5 months ago, you might find they're up for machining again.

  • 5 weeks later...

Measurements are:

Front Left: 28.20mm

Front Right: 28.98mm

Rear Left: 17.67mm

Rear Right: 16.50mm

I believe they are good for 1 more machining but do not need to be machined yet (surface is very smooth).

$200 for all 4 pickup

  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...