Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

*SEARCHING NOW.. my bad brain dead here**

aaaaaaaages ago i posted a thread about wanting heaps of response and rev, was told an apexi AX5 is the way to go..

so now i have one.. in the garage, sitting around.

at the moment i have

Dual stage boost controller

FMIC

Bov

Stock exhaust to Cat, nothing after cat. (yes not so legal *cough*)

stock clutch

SAFC (will be tuned while/after the turbo is/has been just being fitted)

all suspension has been replaced.

thats bout it i think.

things like injectors, fuel pump, Z32, etc are the things that im NOT sure about ill need

ill be basically taking the car to CRD and going 'here ya go, fix it to go faster :whistling:!'

well not quite, but u get the idea.

Edited by illusiVe
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/176969-r34-apexi-ax53b70/
Share on other sites

Hi mate, fitting the same turbo to my R33

I'd think about upgrading the clutch.

Also to make it a safer tune:

larger Injectors (not sure what GTT stockies are though)

Z32 AFM

Fuel Pump

Fuel pressure regulator

I'd personally go for a split dump/front pipe aswell and a high flow cat as the stock one is rather restrictive even with the stock turbo

yer i'll get a split/dump made for about $100 .. nice and easy :whistling:

the rest, i have no idea.. i have factory coilpacks too, should i get splitfires? ( i have the spluttering issue on/off at that 4.5-5.5k mark sometimes the packs themselves look fine though.. so i thought its the tune, and safc should fix it hopefully...)

Edited by illusiVe
  • 3 months later...

Get a new clutch, get bigger 555 or 700cc injectors .. depending how much boost you want to run, a new fuel pump prob a walbro or a tomei one .. 275L/m or whatever it is.

But deff upgrade the fuel system, id also look into a oil cooler*

I'd also hunt down a Power FC or Haltec pc system, you will be able to run the injectors correctly for max responce and max reliablity!

you work fast dont you :S just saw your last post like a week ago bout the turbo :|

Edited by DECIM8
yer i'll get a split/dump made for about $100 .. nice and easy :)

the rest, i have no idea.. i have factory coilpacks too, should i get splitfires? ( i have the spluttering issue on/off at that 4.5-5.5k mark sometimes the packs themselves look fine though.. so i thought its the tune, and safc should fix it hopefully...)

The coilpacks may look fine but i bet there shagged, mine were at farked 55000k's

Yeah fix up the exhaust system, and a fuel pump is a definate, + fuel reg, and z32 afm and a PFC at this stage, depend how much you willing to spend,

no need for injectors atm, stock ones with handle fine till about 240 250rkw...

bellmouth dump + hiflow cat + 3" catback pipe + muffler = $600 approx

bosch 040 fuel pump = $200 (SAU) plus fitting including 13.8V direct battery feed

nismo fuel pressure regulator = $170 delivered from Nengun

Z32 afm new = $290 (SAU)

tune of safc = $300

should get you a good 220rwkw with stnd injectors? see how the stnd clutch goes before you replace that perhaps......

good luck

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...