Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Howdy Lads,

Got these parts up for sale due to selling my car.

Power FC

I got myself here a Power FC for a R33 series one engine without hand controller, i searched for months for one of these and imported it from Japan.

Price : $950 (can post anywhere needed)

post-22196-1184708752_thumb.jpg

post-22196-1184708741_thumb.jpg

Garret T04 Hi-Flowed And Rebuilt New Condition (never been used since rebuild)

0.63 rear housing

0.58 front housing

Rated 600hp

Two internal wastegates / hi / low spring

Optimum boost range 19-22psi

Full boost should be 3000-3400rpm on RB25

** Will put up pictures of turbo tonight **

Price : $800 (can post anywhere needed)

- Luke

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/177017-power-fc-r33-gtst-garret-t04-600hp/
Share on other sites

Hello,

Im located on the Gold Coast in QLD but can do postage at buyers expense.

Im unsure how it would compare all i know is for the size of this turbo its will be on boost fairly quick due to it being high flowed and it offers great HP potential. And ofcourse its Brand new condtion. Not a single km on it. Would be very easy to pull big HP if you have the correct gear with this turbo.

Bolt straights up to RB20 or RB25.

- Luke

Edited by RB20DET_Silvia

do you have any photos and receipts for the turbo?

what would be the expected rwkw figure you could get with this turbo on the right setup (r33 with power fc and all supporting mods)? what other mods will have to be done for it to fit? will it go straight on the manifold and oil/water lines etc?

btw im interested in both items

I would like to say its a t04e i believe it is.....but im unsure.

With this turbo and Power FC along with injectors or hi-flowed standard injectors, fuel pump, fuel reg and a tune you could easily pull over 400 to 450hp (300-340rwkw) at wheels, a aftermarket headgasket would also be a good mod to do if you wanted to run high hp all the time. If you wanted to go over 500hp you would need to do more engine work to run that HP everyday on your engine.

The turbo will straight bolt on to all your standard lines and manifold etc....

I found a picture of the turbo on my computer.

post-22196-1184719279_thumb.jpg

- Luke

wanna swap the power fc for some wheels ??? swap ya this weekend :) - everybody needs a spare set of wheels

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...p;#entry3233590

howdy, im interested in the turbo... u stated it had not seen any use since being rebuilt/high flowed and was done recently, I'm asking the same question someone else just did, do you have the reciept for this? cheers Damo

Hello im on the gold coast,

And i pm'd u all....and sorry wheels i do not need PFC is for sale for cash!

- Luke

You'll regret this...!!

haha nah, free bump for someone selling an rb25 pfc for a fair price!

regards to ur turbo.. is it suited to a t3 or t4 flange ?? also is it internal or external wastegate??

cheers chris

bro if u scroll up it says that the turbo fits an rb25 manifold( which is t3) and in the 1st post it says its internaly gated, plus if you look at the pic, u can clearly see the wastgate actuator, which suggests its.................internally gated lol

bro if u scroll up it says that the turbo fits an rb25 manifold( which is t3) and in the 1st post it says its internaly gated, plus if you look at the pic, u can clearly see the wastgate actuator, which suggests its.................internally gated lol

yea sorry guys alot of posts here.. prob didnt read through an yeh didnt click on the rb25.. my bad.. thanks anyway

i hav an external gate anywayz and if i get the turbs can just weld up the internal one

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you done the Ignition Sync Wizard in the AEM software?
    • Find out what RPM it was idling at with the IACV unplugged. It's very weird that the rpm didn't change at all, and then it stalled. When it stalls is it nearly like a switch off, like you've turned the engine off? Or is it more stutters and sputters and coughs to death over a few seconds? Or does the RPM just slowly keep going down and down? Have you done a test of trying to start it with the AFM unplugged? Does it still die?     If you Follow Josh's advice on using Nistune to check the voltages (which is a perfect method!) if you see anything out of wack voltage wise, THEN get the multimeter out and read the voltage directly at the sensor. If the two vary, then you're now looking for a wiring issue vs a sensor issue. So be aware, what the ECU sees, may not be what the sensor is actually saying too...
    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
×
×
  • Create New...