Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

all parts located in adelaide - near tea tree plaza.

prefer pick up for larger items. although im sure somethin can be arranged just ask.

please contact me via this thread or pm

vertex front bar - $160

near new condition. this is a copy not genuine. painted matt black. has some air bubbles in the fibreglass which have cracked open but not biggie, easily fixed.

post-36971-1185710198_thumb.jpg

BN sideskurts - SOLD

these have some minor damage, again easily fixed.

post-36971-1185710002_thumb.jpgpost-36971-1185710027_thumb.jpg

post-36971-1185710099_thumb.jpg

spotlights to suit typeM front bar - $50

ummm yeah, genuine nissan spotties. no cracks or anything. work as they should. come with the brackets and nuts for typeM bar.

post-36971-1185710057_thumb.jpg

pictured is my old typeM front bar with the spotties sitting in there. i can get a better pic if its needed

gtst bonnet silver - $150

from what i have seen its in good nic, no noticable scratches or bumps. will check more when i see it or on request.

post-36971-1185710226_thumb.jpg

gtst front reo - $120

awesome condition, came off a friends half-cut

post-36971-1185710259_thumb.jpg

EOI - r32 gtst stock rims - $250

awesome condition, no tyres, all centre caps.

please keep in mind this is expression of interest. ppl may say im asking to much, if no one wants them at this price i will keep them.

post-36971-1185710136_thumb.jpg

Edited by hitherehowareyou
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/178599-r32-gts-t-body-kit-bits-other-stuff/
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi Guys, Does anyone know any aftermarket part numbers for a starter motor to suit the VQ25DET? I can find lots of alternative part number for the VQ35DE, which I assume would fit, but there is a lot of conflicting information out there. Thanks..
    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
×
×
  • Create New...