Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey all..

vicroads have given me 2 weeks to get a rwc as when i got the car, it didnt come with one.. so before i chuck on my parts, need to get the rwc done.

only issues i can see are bov, rear tyres and passenger side seat belt which is screwed..

i can easily replace the rear tyres thats no problem;

where can i go east that i can get a road worthy done?

i have searched but i find a lot of members PM with information that cna help.. need this done asap! please help!!

cheers

Josh

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179123-rwc/
Share on other sites

hi mate.

as for getting a rwc i recermend any repco service center. they have warenty and do a realy good a nd through job as all repco stoers are inderpendent. repco only helps with suplying parts, waranty adn workshope equpment.

there should be one in your local area, as for hourly rate its $99/h. if your in the eltham area i would recemrmend andrew timby at 13 brougham st eltham. ph 9439 7574

chears brent

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179123-rwc/#findComment-3265022
Share on other sites

haha it does sound like vu's.. must of gotten names mixed up :nyaanyaa:

ive gone to a guy in dandenong who didnt give me the sort of RWC i wanted but met me half way... i just had to replace acouple of parts that will save my ass while driving and braking etc., other than that, didnt have to change one major part ;)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179123-rwc/#findComment-3267944
Share on other sites

hey 180drifter if you need a factory blov i have one i can loan you.

if ya need it for your RWC, all i do when i get done is swap my HKS BLOV for the factory and then get it marked off and swap it back.

so if ya need it for a loan pm me and we can swap it befor ya go. i can fit it in about 10min too

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179123-rwc/#findComment-3274721
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • (it is a brand new ported mellings pump) I suspect the lack of pressure is due to the leak. It was *not* that low in other logs of oil pressure in the past. It wasn't that hot either, but not far off.
    • Would a Mellings oil pump be a viable option  From my time with a LS, and talking to tuners and LS specialists, the "weak" OEM oil pump is one of the first things they recommend to swap out if I was going to give the engine any high RPM I opted for a Mellings high volume, with the high pressure springs and I never had a issue with it Cost wise they are not expensive in the scheme of things 
    • Just bought a 2002 Stagea 250tRS VR-X Four AERO VQ25DET and spent the last two weekends cleaning and detailing it.. still have to do the wheels and the engine bay but the rest of it came up nice. Imported 2011 to S.A. and I'm the third owner since it was imported. I met the guy who brought it over, he went to Japan and picked out the car, bought it and ordered the wheels. He also gave me a list of stuff he did to the car with receipts. Coil overs (I have the original springs), 3" exhaust from the dump pipe back no cat, Custom dump pipe,(I have the original exhaust), Plenum spacer, 18" custom Work XSA wheels (need restoring, I've made a start..), Shift kit put through the 5 speed tiptronic auto, TV and menus/screens changed to english, Australian DTV tuner installed in rear. I've just had four new discs and new pads as well as all the fluids including the brake fluid replaced. I have all the receipts for the last 15 years and the import papers in a nice folder. Car looks great, goes like hell but fuel economy is not a thing lol.. pics next..
    • I ended up in this rut again lol, and used a shit ton of filler. One thing I can't understand is, even after using a big long block and going in long X pattern strokes, I always end up at bare metal again with no filler, and my repair started at one end of the door and now I've chased my tail to almost the other end of the door. I was thinking of hitting the panel with a hammer where it might be a high spot and making everything low then filling it, I did this on a small section on my other door by mistake and I think I fixed it lol. Is this a bad idea? The other thing is with guidecoat, whether it's the powder or spray, after I sand all the guide coat off, it doesn't reveal anything for me in terms of high spots and low spots and makes it especially hard when it's bare metal (at least in powdered form), am I doing something wrong here, or likely a high spot I keep going over and creating valleys? Lastly, stupid question but, is it possible that after sanding if I only sand over the filler area where I know to be a dent that it's impossible for me to dig into that dent? Unless there are other problems which I missed.  
×
×
  • Create New...