Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

here is a pic of my new front bar.

was wondering if i should keep the square holes or fill them in.

(the ones in the middle above the air dam next to the number plate position)

whats your opinon? :(

post-38345-1186040837_thumb.jpg

Edited by petrolfix
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/179149-s2-260rs-front-bar/
Share on other sites

Keep them in there I say.

Where did you get it from? Import it yourself or buy it locally? Or did it come on your car?

bought it second hand from someone on here that happened to have it lying around brand new unfitted in primer

they are N1 vents, i'm not a fan of them however, they look out of place. (my old GTR front bar had them too)

i am tending to go with mitchy they look kinda out of place on a wagon though it makes it look more agressive. i am tempted to flip a coin.

and everyone else seams to want to leave them for the simple fact of airflow

It's a family wagon not a race car? not to concerned a bout air flow as that huge air dam below kinda let more than ample in and the holes will be blocked by bar rio so cery limited air is going to pass through them.

so wich "LOOKS" better >_<

looks better without. ;)

and yeah, you'd have the cut the support bar (cut it MORE if you have a FMIC) for them to actually be useful.

that large opening in the front will give more than ample air flow, my 33 gts-t with a similar sized opening never got over 1/3 of the temp guage, regardless of how it was driven. :nyaanyaa:

I agree with Mitch too, I never really liked them on GT-Rs, so I wouldn't subject my Stagea to them if I had a 260RS front bar. I think they look like an afterthought.

But this is pretty much a matter of personal opinion and taste.

have a look at andy's old car, cause his car looked friggen porn and he had that front bar but i just cant remember whether he had them in or not.

yep had a look at andy's old car. Don't now about you, but i can't quite tell? :)

post-38345-1186214696_thumb.jpg

this will be the new front bar for my new EGA41T (andy's old one)

this is what it looked like before. this time around it will have a dolfin grille though.

will be happy when it's back on the road.

and before you all ask. cut a long story short. Don't get destacted by your girlfriend whilst driving in heavy traffic

post-38345-1186214855_thumb.jpg

Looks like it went to a good home hey Andy!

(sorry Matthew, no malice intended)

lol, what can you do. i just hope he gets it back to its former glory.

plus i want to know what time it does down the quarter, as i never had the chance to get it on the strip.

anyways, i have a new car now, its called a toyota hiace, roof racks, shelves and racking, 3 ladders, and a bazooka, and best of all free fuel, gotta love the work van, its sexy as :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...