Jump to content
SAU Community

What To Do?

nikr33turb

By nikr33turb,
in Western Australia

 Share

Recommended Posts

NISZILA Grand Master

NISZILA

Posted
Posted

I know... and I understand that. I'm just trying to be the practical mind. Its sometimes hard to tell yourself to take it easy, but when it comes from someone else, it can have more merit.

I just have that sort of outlook because when I was just coming off my P's, I totalled a car. Still owed $7k on it and didn't bother getting insurance cause I had an invincable attitude.

You seem more mature than I was back then. Probably have a better head on your shoulders too :) I just don't want to see other people go through what I did.

Have fun with your car and be proud of it... and if you want to mod it... I'm not telling you not to. Hell, I still can't stop buying stuff for mine :D my gf is always telling me off for spending too much money on the car.

I'm just saying, realise there is a line. Don't cross it, cause you will have regrets like I did. Look into advanced driving courses etc. and then go crazy >_<

NISZILA Grand Master

NISZILA

Posted
Posted

There are a few around. I know there is a gravel track in Kalamunda somewhere. There are also a few skid pans around the place, but don't have details. Wrote it down somewhere, but don't remember where I put it >_<

bubba Grand Master

bubba

Posted
Posted

Check out AHG for driving courses (they're out near the international terminal). Simple mods to begin with which are also supporting mods for later are:

Highflowing filter

Exhaust (done)

Bigger intercooler (depending on power levels you're chasing you can go front mount or R34 side mount)

New fuel pump (stock one will be getting old, something along the lines of an Bosch 040/044)

Manual boost controller (Turbotech boost T, wind it up a bit and see how it goes - i.e. leaning out, hitting R&R etc)

IMO it's at this point in time you should start to address the braking/suspension issues. Good luck and happy modding!

P.S. My little RB20 has pwned 2x R33's now >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • GTSBoy
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Bireley_32
      R32 GT-R: 4WD Light Turns On After Bumps – Code 19 (ETS Motor) But No Issues Found

      By Bireley_32 · Posted

      Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...