Jump to content
SAU Community

Priming fuel pumps...

Belly_up

By Belly_up,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Belly_up Contributor

Belly_up

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

Just got my injectors cleaned and flow tested, and bought a pair of new fuel pumps.

The injector cleaning and flowtesting cost me under $8, which was the cost of new o-rings and seals. didn't get flow figures, but was told they all flowed equal.

So then for less than the price of a 044 pump (which was my original thought), i got a 910 pump AND a 507 in tank lift pump.

My question is, what is the correct procedure to prime the 910 pump, to ensure it doesn't get any air in it?

I was thinking of just running the 507 on it's own for bit (it's self priming) into the 910. would that be enough?

Cheers for any ideas

Belly_up

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/17979-priming-fuel-pumps/
Share on other sites
Zensoku Collaborator

Zensoku

Posted
Posted

If you do have a surge tank, i would be running the intank lift pump on it's own for at least 30 seconds until that surge tank is full and overflowing back to your fuel tank for awhile to remove the air bubbles.

If you don't have a surge tank, then your intank lift pump will have already pressurised the fuel line up to the 910 bosch pump in a matter of a few seconds, in which case, the over pressure relief valve in your lift pump will be bypassing to protect from burning itself out (ie: it's sensing a "blockage" - the non operational 910)

Belly_up Contributor

Belly_up

Posted
  • Author
Posted

no surge tank at the moment, although i'm starting to think i might grab one, as i doubt the baffling in an early 80's fuel tank is sufficient for what i have planned.

what i was worried about, is that when the lift pump pressurises the line leading to the main pump, there will be air in that line that will get forced into the 910, and may become trapped depending on the orientation of the pump. I may be worrying about nothing though...

Zensoku Collaborator

Zensoku

Posted
Posted

If your early 80's fuel tank was rigged up originally for a carbie system, (is this for a conversion? or a skyline?) then i doubt that there would be any internal baffling at all. For around $100+, a surge tank is a good investment to remove any chance of fuel starvation and air bubbles from a pressurised EFI system when you go hard around corners, expecially on a low tank.

Lets face it, any fuel pump will be sucking in some air in it's first few seconds of life... it will be unavoidable. Just prime the whole system the best you can.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ARB26
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By ARB26 · Posted

      Thanks Duncan, that's the best info I've read. Furthermore after learning about the PCM programming side controlling the factory boost solenoid, the purpose of the solenoid is to "bleed" boost when pin 25 is earthed, thus allowing spring pressure in the wastegate actuator to overcome diaphragm boost pressure, thus closing or reducing the position of the wastegate flap creating more boost as the turbo is able to spin faster. It's pretty cool to see a designated Pill to do exactly this, would have liked to have seen it with a tiny filter over the end for those moments in vacuum.  The constant bleed pill has now been removed completely from the system and solenoid boost control has been restored once again.   Case closed 😂
    • GTSBoy
      Cas issue

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The wideband reading is meaningless if it's not running. Why are you using shitty old sidefeeds on any engine, let alone a Neo? What manifold and fuel rail are you using to achieve that? Beyond that, can't help you with AEM stuff as I've never been their ECU/CAS combo.
    • Duncan
      RB26DETT Sketchy boost mod?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Manual boost controllers (where a little of the boost was bled off) were quite common back in the day, because they were cheap and easy. Generally they had a manual adjustment screw rather than being fixed like yours. Down side is they always bleed boost, not just when you want them to so an electronic boost controller that uses a solenoid will have less lag.
    • nash47
      Cas issue

      By nash47 · Posted

      Hello , im new here and i have A31 home build  RB25det neo stock eng / turbo  aem ems 2 blue connector  aem 3.5 map aem cas disk aem wideband connected to ecu  355 lph pump 550 nismo yellow injectors side feed aftermarket regulator  and won’t start with base aem tuner basic tune eventually flipped cas 180 degree so it triggers on correct stroke not in exhaust cycle  Now it won’t start Wideband reads 10 and 11 at lowest fuel setting  and will share calibrations soon for aem tuner i think something is wrong in aem tuner    please if you have any information, am very grateful         
    • nxh
      R34 4 door side skirt identification

      By nxh · Posted

      Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
×
×
  • Create New...