Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi!

My rb20 is playing on me. Yesterday I went for a drive.

Car was ok for pretty much whole time, normal driving, could boost etc.

Than I tried to have a speed test with s14 sr20det from.

Turned on my boostcontroller, installed recently. Profecb, tuned to 0.6-0.7 at 1,2,3 gear. Standing, 1,2,3(gave it some revs), go. 1 st gear pulling, 2nd gear car jurks, no boost. I stop immediately. Idle revs not stable, can't drive a car at all, no power under load. Checked all the hoses, seemed fine and in place. Vacuum at idle : -.7 bar, can rev but with some misfire around 2k.

Revs stable at idle.

Than I turned the engine off to let it rest for a bit. Turned on again in 10-15 min, same. Puffed some black smoke when I put in 1st gear and gave it some revs just to move. On the road home I had to built some revs, around 2-3 k and engage the clutch to make it drivable, without doing it it woulnd't built revs with WOT at all, just drop rev and stall.

Came home hooked up consult, no errors - code 55.

Unplugged AFM, 2500 limiter.

Here are some vids shot yesterday and today.

It was a bad idea to get out of the basement park with such problems, but had no choice, had to do it anyway.

Yesterday consult:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Touv0v_TSko

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Krp-y-Fc8tA

Today revs under load, driving:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=E3Xf99kv0g0

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xxD_TbGoR5Q

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGowIKq2JGw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HGowIKq2JGw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1vcYxoasiU

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wdu9lumNuuc

My ideas:

Fuel pump. (I have bosch 040, maybe it died ?) shows 2.5 bar at idle. Like it should.

AFM died ?

Timing belt jumped a tooth ?

.Sorry for my english LOL.

Looking forward for some ideas.

Thanks!

Edited by robots

I looked at all the piping and it seems to be all in place. If I understand correctly it won't idle ok and it won't show -.7 vacuum at idle. As no piping - leak, unregistered air is going in.

have u checked ur afm? also wat mods u got on the car? its hard to say when we dont know whats been done to it?

also black smoke could be a turbo? correct me if im wrong, but if you blow the turbo, the car will still run but no boost yeh? shot an exhaust wheel??

Edited by cheez

Mods: stock engine, fmic, stock exhaust, bosch 040 fuel pump.

I checked the intercooler piping and its seems intact. I will go have some fun with my car today. Maybe go get another AFM.

Edited by robots

Ok, I've managed to get my engine boosting and reving again. Problem was with the the pipe from the afm to turbo, air leak. And from intercooler to intake plenum. They all had air leaks once on load. Strange. Than after I get rid of that problem, car became driveable. But doesn't pull as hard as before. Didn't try with the boostcontroller yet. Also turbo now got that flatter sound. And I also get backfire when I change gears. I was like wtf ? Also there was some oil in the turbo>intercooler pipe. Cleaned it.

So now car boosts, has mad turbo flatter sound, doesn't pull as hard and gets some idle rev issue when u back of the throttle or press brakes.

Any ideas ?

Will post vids later.

Edited by robots

Boosting again.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lTYpV9mc1bY

1st gear pull and really loud bang/backfire. It was like gun shot.

Had little fuel in the tank at that moment. So I had something like a fuel cut after that backfire. Damn it :x

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jC_ZxgPEe_c

Exhaust note at idle after the backfire bang.

Now I got some drone sound in the downpipe area. Maybe I shot of a turbo exhaust wheel ? :cheers: :?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xyck4sARUe4

And some fun, doing some donuts a week ago.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KFE8Xzy8wBU

What I got now:

1)Engine can rev, make boost.

2)Got mad turbo flatter sound now.

3)Got rid of most air leaks I guess.

4)Car doesn't pull as hard as before. Or I just forgot how it pulled already.

5)And I get backfire bangs nearly every time I change gear. It even backfires on idle, when I rev it and lift off the throttle.

When I was looking for the air leak in intercooler piping, I found some oil build up in turbo>intercooler pipe, wiped it off.

Edited by robots

I had oil all through my piping and exhaust when the seals in my turbo blew, so maybe that has happened.

Not too sure bout the backfiring but when my 32 was still N/A i had alot off backfires or 'pops' as i changed gear and some times when i changed down

The turbo flutter could be from a BOV that isnt opening and pushing out the air back through the turbo (oil in the piping might have gotten into the BOV and is making it harder for it to open). also if there is oil leaking through the inlet side and into the motor that may aslo be holding back some power, and not letting it feel like it is going as hard

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...