Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys just got my car dyno yesterday and before i had it dyno they notice that i had cooland leaking from the water pump. would i have to replace the water pump or just the seal?? if it was to be the water pump where can i get a new or aftermarket one??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180615-coolant-leak/
Share on other sites

hmmm, it really depends

if could just be leaking from the base due to a seal failure

or it could be that the shaft of the waterpump is rooted

if it's the first one, remove the waterpump, put new seal on it and put it back in, they have a pretty long shelf life anyway

if it's the shaft, then you'll be needing a new one, scope out forums, ebay and trade places where you live, I think i got mine for $70 last time I needed it, which wasn't too bad a price, but I guess I could've searched for longer and found a cheaper option

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180615-coolant-leak/#findComment-3283758
Share on other sites

You basically use CRC or Selleys quick sealant:

There are two types both work fine:

Black one = most commonly used is Windscreen Sealant

Clear one = marine sealant

btoh are silicone, use a 2-3mm strip round the old gasket edges of the waterpump, make sure you scrape off all the old stuff, then put it on, bolt it up and leave it to dry for a few hours :nyaanyaa:

Then it should be as good as new, total cost round $10

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180615-coolant-leak/#findComment-3283903
Share on other sites

Flash if your going to go to the trouble of removing your pump i would install a new item as its a lot of mucking around to get the old one off and new one on.

try just jap they have them in stock as many of the traders here will

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180615-coolant-leak/#findComment-3283986
Share on other sites

its easier to get a new pump, when mine was leaking i asked about seal kits and everyone said to replace the whole thing because the pumps are pretty cheap now a days

if you havn't done your 100k service yet it'll a good time to now aswell considering timing belt might have to be taken off also

dont just seal it up either.. do it properly and change it all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180615-coolant-leak/#findComment-3284098
Share on other sites

Flash you dont need a gasket you will need to use a silicone based sealant which is applied to the water pump just before you put it in place.

Make sure the surface on the engine block is really clean of old silicone gasket, scrap it with a sharp edge then just before you place the new water pump with silicone gasket applied, give the engine block a spray and wipe with brake cleaner to get rid of any possible oil so the silicone bonds well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180615-coolant-leak/#findComment-3288959
Share on other sites

mate i am not sure about a GTS-T but if its anything like a GTR then dont do it unless you are sure of what your doing.

You need to remove the engine vibration dampener of the crank shaft, all the alt, A/C etc. Then you will need to remove the cam timing belt. If you havent done it before get a mate who has or a work shop manual as there i a little bit involved.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180615-coolant-leak/#findComment-3289335
Share on other sites

ok i just did mine but one prob. there is like a tiny hole in the seal and there is coolant coming out like how water comes out of a water pistol. could i just put a lil dob of sealant to cover it??

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/180615-coolant-leak/#findComment-3294538
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...