Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Gday guys,

I bought a laptop a few weeks back and was thinking about throwing it the glove box? Haha Crazy yeah but I think it is possible. Had a look at some of the other topics with carputer setups and most of those things they did i plan to do (GPS,Aux Audio etc.) Measured it up and it should fit however i will have to gut the frame out of the glovebox and some of the plastic firewall thingo at the back of the glovebox. Thought I could put it on a small platform with sort of ball bearing cabinet type rails so i can open the glove box and slide it out. Any holes you see in my ideas let me know or any helpful suggestions!!

Also my other question is if there is a way of getting it in the glove box is there any way it would be able to connect to my Power FC computer. Ive heard rumors of programs and cabling available?

Anyone out there on the same nerdy wavelength? P.S. Have a 93' R33 GTS-T

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181064-laptop-glovebox/
Share on other sites

Yeah FC Datalogit works, check the RX7 forums, they have some cool hacks and guides on how to make the serial cable

I'm in the same boat as you, well kind of, I hate the whole idea of a laptop in the car, I'd rather go cheaper proper PC

I'm creating mine at the moment

Total cost:

Motherboard, Harddrive, other pieces free

12v Auto switching car power supply 90w(enough to run the VIA low power systems) $80

serial to USB converter for datalogit/consult $7

consult connector(For now till PowerFC) $70

8" Flipdown monitor 1200x800 res(cheaper than a fixed monitor) $120

mini mouse $10

flexible keyboard $5

Bluetooth adapter $5 for phone, so i can use it handsfree if I need to, but i doubt i ever will

$292NZD(cheaper in AUD)

How much is your laptop worth? if it's just a throw away cheapo, sell it for as much as you can and get a VIA CPU and motherboard off Ebay, cheap as.

I've basically created an aluminium shroud where the normal stereo and AC sits, I'm going to mount the screen, a few USB ports and a lighter socket in there

relocating the headunit to where teh factory lighter socket and pocket sits(DVD headunit, with DTS dolby and a few other things, JVC DV9606 i think

PC1.jpg

I've got a 8cm BLue LED quiet fan from a previous computer that I'll be using to cool the power supply, the rest of it stays pretty cool already

IMG_0302.jpg

Specs, nothing too flash:

VIA 1ghz CPU

256mb RAM

2gb HDD(Op system only, using 80gb portable for music and movies if need be)

Network card 100mb

Tiny motherboard, the size of a 1DIN slot

8" screen is the size of 2 DINs

MOving the AC controller into the centre console storage, so under the LID with some smooth wiring :/

Will have a 5.1 Jazz PC sound decoder with digital in powered by the power supply hidden in teh glove box, takse up about half the glovebox, but looks cool with flashy lights and won't be seen during normal driving, only for show

So the PC goes into the headunit AUX In, the headunit goes to digital optical to the DTS decoder,

The decoder goes to a 5 channel amp, for my 6.5" front comps(kappa infinity), 5.25" JVC Centres(not too bad, just for fill), 6x9" JVCs in the rear, then a D-class amp powers my JVC 12" sub in custom box

The 5 channel amp will be mounted behind the PC in the centre console too and the rear amp will be hidden in the boot.

I like hiding stuff.

For the OS I'm using WinXP but a much smaller version to cut back load times, it'll be round 500mb big in total, so it'll take round 10 sec to boot or so, at the moment with no OS, it boots to the "Cannot boot" screen in about 2 sec :cheers: so it's nice and fast.

Other options for the future will be GPS and wireless, if i can be bothered :D

If you didn't want to go that crazy, you'd need a lighter socket to match the volts and amps of your current DC adapter, a small screen to mount somehwere, maybe a 7-8" single din that folds out, you can get touchscreen, but they are quite expensive, and you'd need a way of putting the PC sound into the stereo, if you've got one with AUX in already, then it'll be easy >_<

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181064-laptop-glovebox/#findComment-3291255
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • So I mentioned the apprentice, @LachyK helped take the bonnet off. We just undid the nuts on the hinges and unclipped the gas struts, then pulled the bonnet back a little as the front was catching on the front bar.  I had a good look at everything today and have removed the rams, repaired/reset the hinges and bolted it back together like it never happened. I'll do a separate write up on the repair, and I also removed the poppers from the Fuga today too to save grief down the road.....as said above it is at least $5k to repair retail. I'm also happier about my ability to prepare a race car, and less happy about Nis-nault's engineering (I can hear @GTSBoy sAfrican Americaning) because the top hose of the radiator didn't slip off.......it snapped clean off. By practice I put the hose clamp hard up against the flare on a neck to make it least likely to ever move (thanks @Neil!). I guess that puts a little more pressure on the end of the pipe as it is further away from the rad, but still, that is pretty shit. I've put it back on for now as there was a fair bit of neck still there, but obviously there is no lip on the neck any more so I don't think I'll track it again until I have a new rad. Speaking of which....more research required. It looks like Koyo makes a standard size radiator in ally which I'll grab in the meantime, but I really want something thicker so might have to go custom in the medium term (ouch) Coolant still needs a refill and I have the pressure tester on it over night, but other than a wash down of the engine bay it seems alright. And @MBS206 noted something noisy on the front of the engine and I think I agree....time for a new accessory belt and tensioners I think.
    • our good friends at nismo make a diff for it, I have one (and a spare housing to put the centre in) on the way. https://www.nismo.co.jp/products/web_catalogue/lsd/mechanical_lsd_v37.html AMS also make a helical one, but I prefer mechanical for track use in 2wd (I do run a quaife in the front, but not rear of the R32)
    • What are we supposed to be seeing in the photo of the steering angle sensor? The outer housing doesn't turn, right? All the action is on the inside. The real test here is whether or not your car has had the steering put back together by a butcher. When the steering is centred (and we're not caring about the wheel too much here, we're talking about the front wheels, parallel, facing front) then you should have an absolutely even number of turns from centre to left lock and centre to right lock. If there is any difference at all then perhaps the thing has been put back together wrongly, either the steering wheel put on one spline (or more!) off, and the alignment bodged to straighteb the wheel, or the opposite where something silly was done underneath and the wheel put back on crooked to compensate. Nut there isn't actually much evidence that you have such a problem anyway. It is something you can easily measure and test for to find out though. My money is still on the HICAS CU not driving the PS solenoid with the proper PWM signal required to lighten the load at lower speed. If it were me, I would be putting either a multimeter or oscilloscope onto the solenoid terminals and taking it for a drive, looking for the voltage to change. The PWM signal is 0v, 12V, 0V, 12v with ...obviously...modulated pulse width. You should see that as an average voltage somewhere between 0V and 12V, and it should vary with speed. An handheld oscilloscope would be the better tool for this, because they are definitely good enough but there's no telling if any cheap shit multimeter that people have lying around are good enough. You can also directly interfere with the solenoid. If you wire up a little voltage divider with variable resistor on it, and hook the PS solenoid direct to 12V through that, you can manually adjust the voltage to the solenoid and you should be able to make it go ligheter and heavier. If you cannot, then the problem is either the solenoid itself dead, or your description of the steering being "tight" (which I have just been assuming you mean "heavy") could be that you have a mechanical problem in the steering and there is heaps of resistance to movement.
    • Little update  I have shimmed the solenoid on the rack today following Keep it Reets video on YouTube. However my steering is still tight. I have this showing on Nisscan, my steering angle sensor was the closest to 0 degrees (I could get it to 0 degrees by small little tweaks, but the angle was way off centre? I can't figure this out for the life of me. I get no faults through Nisscan. 
    • The BES920 is like the Toyota Camrys of coffee machines. E61 group head is cool, however the time requirements for home use makes it less desirable. The Toyota Camry coffee machine runs twin boilers and also PID temp control, some say it produces coffees as good as an E61 group head machine.
×
×
  • Create New...