Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i am finally over da hump with only some supporting mods to make :rofl: =thankyou.

atm either installed or arriving, i have a

t3t4 stage 3 h/f tubo

safc II

twin plate clutch with os giken flywheel

3"exhaust, with screamer dump pipe

bilstein shocks-fr&rr strut bars

stock injectors(BUT NEEDS TO CHANGE)

BOSCH 040 PUMP AND NISMO FUEL REG

pod/cai

ssq bov

FMIC

sound system-dvd playa, custom boot with 2 12"1200watt subs, mono block 2000 watt, 4ch 100watt

turbo timer

nismo copper coated gasket = $$$$$$, almost died paying for it.

my question to u guys, if i have a fuel pump with stock injectors, how far can i go without blowing it. and i am thinking of going for 550cc's, can these take me to that magic 300kw+ number.

sry if theres not enough info, just a broad question.

:rofl:

ALSO IF THERES ANYONE OUT THERE WITH 550CC, PLS SEND ME A PM IF UR WANTING TO SELL, I LIVE ON THE SUNSHINE COAST.

Edited by r33cruiser
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/181239-fuel-pump-and-injectors/
Share on other sites

i think you will run into trouble with the stock ecu maxing out before the injectors do

damn, ok, even with an safc II?

sweet, this is the stuff i need to know, to reach that 300kw.

any more suggestions or ways to improve would be appreciated

Edited by r33cruiser
I have a nice big thread here.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=167572&hl=

Lots of stuff neesd to be done.

would it be at all possible to run 555ccers with the ecu and safc? or with a ramapped ecu?

and if no, what would be the largest injectors i could go. dont want to shell out $1000+ for a ecu of pfc?

Edited by r33cruiser

sorry mate, but you won't get anywhere without an aftermarket ECU.

The Powerfc is cheap for $1000.

What other options have you got? $2400 for a Haltek? $2200 for a Autronic? $2300 for a Link?

If you "don't want to spend money", then you can't make your car go fast.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...