Jump to content
SAU Community

33 Gts-t With 260kw An Heaps Of Mods

abcent
 Share

Recommended Posts

abcent Mentor

abcent

Posted
Posted

CAR DETAILS:

1994 R33 series 1 gts-t

Power Mods:

hi-fow turbo (from AVO and has been freshly rebuilt to handle 20psi in July07) Cost $1800 + reconditioning

Microtech LTS-12 ECU & hand controller Cost $1800

Nippon Denso hi vloume fuel pump Cost $300

840cc Nismo injectors Cost $1400

Blitz SUS pod filter Cost $250

HKS FMIC & piping Cost $1800

GTR BOV Cost $100

Blitz d-EBC (dual electronic boost controller) $cost $600

HKS Iridium spark plugs Cost $160

Grex oil cooler Cost $1000

morroso catch can (not in pic of engine bay but since installed) $cost $200

Gates racing timing belt (installed at 87,000kms with new idler & tensioner pulleys & bolts) Cost $200

tomei adjustable exhaust cam gear Cost $160

full earthing kit Cost $50

nismo radiator cap Cost $80

HKS stainless dump pipe Cost $350

Blitz 80mm stainless front pipe Cost $350

X-Force 3"stainless cat Cost $220

Blitz NUR Spec-R 80mm cat back exhaust (with bolt in silencer) Cost $1100

Jim Berry (RACE CLUTCH)brass button clutch, one very tuff clutch!!! has 3400kg clamp pressure (installed 12months ago....less than 6000kms) Cost $1200

Handling Mods:

Front & rear Cusco strut braces Cost $350

Tein HA adj coilovers (height and 24step dampen adjustable) Cost $2800

Nismo 2-way LSD Cost $1800

HICAS removal bar Cost $150

Bridgestone 235/45/r17 front tyres BFGoodrich 255/40/r17 rear tyres Cost $1400

BBS 17x8 front an 17x9 Rear 2 piece forged rims were on car but was quoted $1700 per rim to replace but they're no longer made.

Bendix ultimate brake pads Cost $250

Slotted DBA rear rotors Cost $260

Braided brake lines Cost $500

Looks:

Genuine series 3 N1 GTR front bar Cost $1500

GTR grill Cost $200

400R skirts Cost $200

Veilside rear bar Cost $560

D-wing Cost $300

Nismo clear indicators in GTR bar aswell as side front 1/4 panels Cost $300

"skyline" shaved from the rear part between the indicators Cost $150

tinted windows (darkest legal) Cost $450

Interior:

Sports steering wheel / HKB boss kit Cost $280

Blitz guages(3 - water temp/oil temp/boost) Cost $300

Nismo 300km/h dash Cost $800

Blitz multispeed turbo timer Cost $260

Rockford forsgate head unit Cost $400

Earthquake 6" splits front $Cost 230

series 2 drivers & passanger seats

thats $22,300 worth of parts ALONE!!!! NOT INCLUDING the wheels, or labour for fitting, or painting, or the time spent on dyno tuneing

my loss, your gain :)

Power:

Dyno sheet for 259kw (at 17psi)

ET:

Best so far is 12.8 on street tyres at Heathcote on a 30+ degree day (only been to the strip twice)

$17,000 (open to offers)

With Rego till August 08 and a RWC

Has 90,000kms on it (48,000 km when I bought it in 2001).

This car has been maticulously maintained since the day I bought it in 2001, I was the first owner of it here in Oz, oil & oil filter changed every 6 months regardless of kms, all fluids have been changed within the last 12months. Timing belt/tensioner&idler pulleys bolts changed only a few months ago. New windscreen in Feburary. Hi-flow turbo just been freshly rebuilt in July

Any other questions please dont hesitate to ask, I'm sure ive forgotten something.....and happy to answer any queries

Located in Geelong, Victoria. Can bring car to Melbourne for serious buyer

Cheers

Berin

[email protected]

0417 546 384

enginebay.jpg

timingbelt.jpg

camgear.jpg

oilcooler.jpg

cluster.jpg

consile.jpg

wheel.jpg

post-7879-1196318128_thumb.jpg

post-7879-1196318219_thumb.jpg

Black_R33 Enthusiast

Black_R33

Posted
Posted

Hi Berin,

The car looks really neat and tidy. Just a few technical questions about the car. How many kays did the car do on the old speedometer? How many kays has the standard motor been running 260kw? Does the new "gates" timing belt give the engine any more power over a nissan belt? The turbo can run 20psi has the standard engine been modified to suit the extra boost? In your signature picture the car looks to be involved in some sort of motorsport. How often do you do this?

Sorry for all the questions but there are so many stock cars out there with questionable service history that have been clocked in Japan and then live most of there life boosted to the edge of the limits of the standard engine.

Thanks

Tracey

Black_R33 Enthusiast

Black_R33

Posted
Posted

Thanks for your detailed reply Berin,

I am a bit of a newby with forums and my boyfriend is about as sharp as a nuns nasty. I will run this info by my Dad "He works for Perkins Racing" and will get back to you if I am interested in making an offer.

Thanks again

Tracey

Reply

"Hi Tracey, I'm happy to answer any questions you might have,

1: when the new speedo was installed it was set to the same reading as the old one that was removed.

2: Its been running 260kw now for about 8 months an is still performing strong, its going in for a "check up" dyno tune on Monday, I do that every 6 months just to make sure everything is running the way it should.

3: The gates belt offers no power benifit but is 3 times stronger than a standard belt so it can withstand the output of the motor easily

4: The turbo can run 20psi, but I have not run it at that as it is a standard engine. 18psi is ok on the stock RB25's an 20psi would probably be ok, but im never one to push those limits. The power figures are made at 18psi and it performs strongly at this boost, but I mainly drive it set at 9psi. even at 9psi the car makes over 200kw

5: I've used it for 2 motokana days (where your lucky to get out of second gear an each run is shorter than 2 minutes) an even then it was on 9psi, because of the low speed nature of it theres no point in usung high boost settings. The car was always up to good operating temperature (oil & water) before I ever put it through any sort of event or dyno runs. Im very particular about my car an how I treat it, this is why it has been a constant strong performer with little to no faults ever happening to the car.

hope this has cleared a few things up for you, if you have any further questions, please dont hesitate to ask

Cheers

Berin"

abcent Mentor

abcent

Posted
  • Author
Posted

your welcome tracey, If your dad has any other questions on his mind, or you for that matter, my mobile numbers there, give me a call an i'll answer everything as best I can, I can even put him onto they guy (Chris Dalton of Daltons Automotive) who has personally tuned an looked after the car for me for many years.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • MBS206
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By MBS206 · Posted

      The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • MBS206
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...