Jump to content
SAU Community

275-300kws

Adz2332

By Adz2332,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

R338OY Veteran

R338OY

Posted
Posted
In my opinion a 260rwkw GTS25t on a set of MickyT ET Streets would rape an 220wkw R32 GTR down the 1/4.

Yeah i agree :action-smiley-069: What you really want a GTR for is the track, where AWD can suck up the corners. But doing 1/4 mile, you need those extra kW's in your tuned GTS-T.

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

if you get an R32 GTR, try to stretch your budget to buy one that has been rebuilt and has aftermarket turbo's/turbo.

you would be silly or all cashed up to buy yourself a $18K 89 model R32 GTR with original engine and turn up the wick on those..

how much money you got to spend?

if your car is worth $15K and you have another $10K lying around, you could get yourself a nicely built R32 GTR for $25K that only a handful of GTST's could come near in a straight line or around corners.

Adz2332 Grand Master

Adz2332

Posted
  • Author
Posted
if you get an R32 GTR, try to stretch your budget to buy one that has been rebuilt and has aftermarket turbo's/turbo.

you would be silly or all cashed up to buy yourself a $18K 89 model R32 GTR with original engine and turn up the wick on those..

how much money you got to spend?

if your car is worth $15K and you have another $10K lying around, you could get yourself a nicely built R32 GTR for $25K that only a handful of GTST's could come near in a straight line or around corners.

theres one im looking at with a gtr 33 engine in it...

bombtrack Experienced

bombtrack

Posted
Posted
afm, clutch, flywheel, possibly coils, and alot of people will suggest suspension.

personally i wouldn't put stock internals through more than 260ish

Brakes are usually a good idea at this sort of power level also. People often forget... it's all good to be making huge numbers but you need the anchors to stop the boat.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • GTSBoy
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • albyz34gt
      R34 N/a And R34 Turbo (gtt) Transmission.. Uh, Problem.

      By albyz34gt · Posted

      @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • RB25inside
      R34 Handbrake light saying ON and intermittently flashing

      By RB25inside · Posted

      Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • GTSBoy
      ECU sees many times the speed than speedo does (R34 swap)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...