Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

Just getting rid of my Bilsteins from my s2 r33 non turbo, upgrading to coilovers. Product number is F4-B46-1916-H0 if that means anything to anoybody.

Theyre in good condition still work perfectly, never ever had a problem.

I find the ride pretty firm, but nothing harsh as the shocks seem well matched with the springs.

No body roll until you push it. I bought them about 15,000kms old then the dude i bought them off decided to hit a telegraph pole, when i checked them out, they still seemed perfect. I've had them in my car for about 2 and a half years, done less than 20,000k's.

Looking for $400 for all 4 with springs, will considder separating springs and shocks if i get buyers for both. Buyer pays post obviously (from Sydney).

Let me know via PM, I'm keen to get rid of them, don't wanna muck around too much.

I attached the pic of them, rears are the long ones.

post-38437-1187918582_thumb.jpg

post-38437-1187918663_thumb.jpg

Edited by oly124

They're off my series 2 non-turbo r33.

I live in sydney, near hornsby.

I'm happy to sell rears for $200 only If someone wants to buy fronts for the same. I don't really wanna get stuck with one pair of struts as they're a set of 4.

NB. also have a pair of really low front K-mac springs if anyone is interested.

any idea of the rears will fit a series 1 gtst?

x2

how hard were they on the road?

i'm assuming they're not height and damper adjustable??

interested in the full set if you provide pics

The shocks are not overly hard, there is still moderate movement when you hit a rough speed bump or something. I found them to be a good compromise as they are comfortable driving and dont throw you round or anything like that. And no they are not adjustable.

If anyone lives close i would be happy to take them for a drive.

NB. will fit series 1, person i bought them off had an s1.

Edited by oly124

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
    • Does it also misfire equally when revving?   Josh is very correct in what you should do. The coilpack harness wiring loom itself is a known problem due to its age and the number of heat cycles it has gone through. Throwing parts at a vehicle to diagnose the issue isn't a smart or good way to do it. Secondly, you may have a bad coil pack, you pop replacements in, they fix that issue, but messing with the harness breaks it, so the issue persists. So now you think "well it wasn't the coil packs" and have to continue chasing your tail, potentially swapping back in your shit coil packs and returning the good ones (yes, I've seen people do this because 'it wasn't the problem' and they want to save money). And suddenly, you've got two issues with the same symptoms...   Diagnose, don't use the spare parts shotgun.
×
×
  • Create New...