Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I finally got my RB20DET into my S13, wired up and what not. The problem I'm having now is she doesn't seem to want to hold the revs. like, She'll rev up past 3. But when I hold it there, it seems to drop in revs cough a little then go back up to 3. Blowing dick loads of black smoke on 3 as well. I have a vid, but I just have to post it on youtube to show my problem.

Any idea's? I still gotta get the clutch to work, but I'm still a little worried about taking her out for a drive for the first time.

Standard injectors,

Hotpipe (Untill I find someone who will custom make my intercooler piping)

No exhaust on it untill I can be bothered.

Standard turbo and actuator.

AFM is plugged in, but it was the one that I was using with the non-turbo motor. Green label. Hotpipe, no intercooler, straight from turbo to manifold. Running low boost. I'm thinking that perhaps the fuel has gone stale, and the timing is off?

I suppose I'll hook up the boost guage and see if its coming onto boost. The blow off valve seems to release air though, so I'm sure that the turbo is actually spooling.

Please help!

Edited by Rancher
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182158-rb20det-problems/
Share on other sites

Have you checked the timing?

And the rev's could be due to TPS being out, was it removed?

Double check the timing, the CAS could be out of place.

Had a similar problem SR20DET, was the TPS thats why the revs where up and down, and as for blowing smoke that what the timing.

Hope that helps.

Edited by abu

AFM is plugged in, but it was the one that I was using with the non-turbo motor. Green label. Hotpipe, no intercooler, straight from turbo to manifold. Running low boost. I'm thinking that perhaps the fuel has gone stale, and the timing is off?

edited in main post as well.

Yeah I brought the car with a non-turbo RB20DE in it. I brought it for the sole purpose of putting an RB20DET in it. Dont ask me why the guy I brought it off put on nin-turbo one in it lol. Ive fixed the problem by putting a turbo one in.

Gonna go have a play with the CAS now. I'll let you know.

Yeah I brought the car with a non-turbo RB20DE in it. I brought it for the sole purpose of putting an RB20DET in it. Dont ask me why the guy I brought it off put on nin-turbo one in it lol. Ive fixed the problem by putting a turbo one in.

Gonna go have a play with the CAS now. I'll let you know.

Make sure you check the timing first with a timing gun, before you go playing with the CAS.

I reckon its the CAS personally, a long with the TPS.

More problems....

I just took her out for a drive...

Wouldn't come on boost. She warmed up and stalled. Wouldn't start. I have a theory that the NA FPR that I have used is too different. I'll plug my SARD rising rate in (At what PSI should it be set at at idle?) And the stalling seamed to be caused by the coolant temp sensor. Perhaps the coolant return line I have going to the heater hose (I have the heater hose in a circle, no heater) is registering as flamin hot and its killing the motor.

Can people confirm my theory? Any idea's on where I could plumb back the coolant return for the turbo? It DOES NOT have the stock return line for some reason. So don't say that lol.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE help me. Ive pored thousands into this, I'm losing motivation to fix it. Help me!!

Heck, I'll pay for meals, accommodation etc for someone to come out and help me!

More problems....

I just took her out for a drive...

Wouldn't come on boost. She warmed up and stalled. Wouldn't start. I have a theory that the NA FPR that I have used is too different. I'll plug my SARD rising rate in (At what PSI should it be set at at idle?) And the stalling seamed to be caused by the coolant temp sensor. Perhaps the coolant return line I have going to the heater hose (I have the heater hose in a circle, no heater) is registering as flamin hot and its killing the motor.

Can people confirm my theory? Any idea's on where I could plumb back the coolant return for the turbo? It DOES NOT have the stock return line for some reason. So don't say that lol.

PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE help me. Ive pored thousands into this, I'm losing motivation to fix it. Help me!!

Heck, I'll pay for meals, accommodation etc for someone to come out and help me!

Your first problem is that it sounds like your scimping on money. You have to have it all installed properly and working as it should be before you can guess at why it may or may not be right..

GET a turbo FPR and then get a turbo everything else...

Why is the heater in a circle?

The stock return line for the turbo enters under the intake plenum

Youve also got no cooler so that'll be making it run hot as hell

S13's have bad airflow enough as it is.

My mate had no intercooler on his 180sx when he first put his rb20 in and it pinged its tits off.

The stale fuel and wrong afm wont help either.

You really have far too many variables and things that havent been done right or finished for people on hear to offer any effective form of diagnosis.

I now have a SARD rising rate FPR in there, the heater is in a circle because like i said. There is no pipe for the coolant return. I'm running with no bonet on atm so I dont really see I drama. Nor is it pinging atm. I thought the NA and turbo AFM were the same? that the only reason Ive used it.

hot pipe should be ok, just don't boost it! i've help a mate solve a problem the same as yours but with a rb20det in to vl. fuel send and return lines to the fuel rail were hooked up the wrong way round.

just to clear things up did you turbo the na motor or swap the motor for a rb20det?

also have you bled the coolant through through the motor, removing any air pockets. an over heating motor will stall and fart and carry on

It is a turbo motor. Yeah the coolant has been bleed through. No problems with that anymore. It stays a nice temp. She just wont boost... It sounds like (Cause I live in the sticks, I dont have an exhaust on it, or a bonet lol) 4500RPM you can hear the turbo but only reads on the gauge as 1PSI... then at about 5 it sorta changes note... The wastegate is not opening. I have the pipe off to check that.. I'm getting frustrated lol. I'm sure even if it was stale fuel it would hit boost harder then 1PSI...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just don’t be silly enough to think it’ll never happen either 
    • I take it that you bought the centre to suit the GTR axles? As in there was a plan, not just somehow lucky that it worked? It all looks excellent, by the way.
    • New engine block time. Up to you whether you want to keep going down this road with this project. Unfortunately a lot of these cars are like this. The road to getting these cars into decent shape is long and not fun for reasons that you're discovering. 
    • Essay time. First things first, an RB running stock turbo and boost levels shouldn't get so bad as to stall from reversion if the recirc valve has been deleted. Should get a little fluffy and annoying, but in my experience, not so bad as to stall. Of course, every car is a bit different, so it remains possible that stalling will happen. So, running with no recirc valve is somewhat of an option, for otherwise stock stuff. Atmo BOVs cause all sorts of shit, even on an otherwise stock setup. Only gets worse the higher the boost and the bigger the turbo. At that point you really need to go for a different ECU and no AFM. Rebuilding the stock recirc valve configuration is not hard. You just need a stock or aftermarket BOV with the appropriate adapter for the 2 bolt flange on the back of the J pipe, and to get/make an appropriate ~1" pipe to get the air back to the turbo inlet, and to possibly modify the inlet (if it is not stock) to take the recirc pipe back in. Not hard. Just takes some cutting and welding. Putting an R35 type AFM into the car anywhere is not as simple as just buying the AFM and throwing it in. You will also need to buy the appropriate boss that will then need to be welded onto the pipe where you're installing it. You can clearly see why by looking at the photo posted above. They are not a "simple" swap for a stocker. You can't put on in place of the stock AFM. You can put one in place of the stock AFM, if you get the mounting boss and weld it to some pipe and otherwise make that pipe piece work like the stock AFM housing. Or you can buy such an adapter, either complete with the 4 bolt flange for the air box, or without, for varying degrees of work needed to then make it fit your stock airbox or some pod filter or whatever you have going on. Oh, and the R35 AFM is not plug and play. The wiring is different, but changing that is trivial. The plug is also different so you either end up repinning the original wires onto the new plug, or you just use a short adapter. If you weld a boss to the cold side pipe, the cold side pipe really wants to be 3", otherwise the scaling on the meter can get a bit weird, but whatever the pipe size, it's not as easy as just using the (fully documented in the Nistune doco) simple method for choosing R35 AFM in X" pipe size in the software, because the scaling will already be a bit different. Anyway, all of this has been comprehensively worked through on the Nistune forums, so there is full knowledge available. I would use a Link/Haltech before I would bother putting an AFM into a cold side pipe. That's a lot of effort for a bodge. Nistune is great, can work well even at fairly high power levels, but you are stuck with the limitations of it being the stock ECU, which includes needing to use an AFM, which is not always convenient for every set of modifications. You have to have a think about what you already have, what you want to have, and decide early if you'd be better off jumping ship to an aftermarket ECU. This so you don't waste time and money doing things 2 or 3 times. Never heard of ECUmaster. Sounds like a backyard operation. If there are good tuners for it where you are, and it is a solid product, then it will be fine. We're only talking about an R engine here. Back in the day they all ran on crude nasty early 90s ECUs and they were fine. You don't need a rocket surgeon's ECU to run one.
    • So left off with high hopes of having a gearbox in pretty quickly........ Got the adapter plate that week and had to chase a few threads and work out how/where everything goes as no instructions. Got the adapter fitted, test fitted gearbox and found had to cut and shave a few things. Tunnel required some hits with a decent hammer to give some clearance on passenger side but it fits with no problems,  could fit a 8hp70 with a little more work. For a cross member I wasn't going to spend $1100 on so shiny machined piece. Went through a few designs and remembered I had a gktech s chassis to cd00# cross member. Fitted that and found its close enough with a few extra bits welded so have gone that way and still a work in progress.  After this got into modifying the intercooler with some bends and clamps. I was procrastinating on this as was not keen to cut up and weld it myself but happy with the outcome.  Onto the radiator shroud and oil cooler mount. This thing took way longer than I thought it would but having to add an extra oil cooler for the trans and wanting everything within the chassis rails its good enough for now. It mounts to the chassis and gives plenty of room for lines and pipes. All the coolers are rubber mounted and sealed the shroud on the top and sides, will use some tape to seal the bottom gap of about 10mm. 20250508_111500.mp4   Next job was to build the new diff and after a delay with a friend got built this week. I ended up putting it all together with supervision and was good to learn how to set one up correctly. I ended up going a 3.69 ratio, nismo 1.5 way gt pro with gtr Axel's. Stripped it all down, gave all the parts a good clean, pressed on new bearings and set backlash. Was good working in a clean assembly room with all the gear. Once got home wire wheeled the case and hit it with some rollbar/chassis black paint. Got a few more bits done but will leave them for the next update.
×
×
  • Create New...