Jump to content
SAU Community

R31 Projector Headlights

foo

By foo,
in Classic & Vintage (1950's-1980's)

 Share

Recommended Posts

0R10N Explorer

0R10N

Posted
Posted

I think the projectors were a factory option. you can get regular (non-projector) slant nose headlights as well.

Actually your post raises another good question: was the squared-off "feral" front an option, and who in their right mind would choose it over the slant nose front?

HR31_RB20DET Proficient

HR31_RB20DET

Posted
Posted
I think the projectors were a factory option. you can get regular (non-projector) slant nose headlights as well.

Actually your post raises another good question: was the squared-off "feral" front an option, and who in their right mind would choose it over the slant nose front?

Squared front was standard on the series 1 passage.

From what I can tell projectors were standard on series 2 coupes (late 87 onwards) and a standard on RB20DET passages and a factory option on the rest of the passage range.

0R10N Explorer

0R10N

Posted
Posted

Hmm, could well make sense.

A friend of mine has a 1986 HR31 GTS-X, with projector front and Passage-style indented stovetop rears (not the covered ones you usually see). But from looking on Yahoo Japan auctions there doesn't seem to be any rhyme or reason as to which years R31s came with what style of front/headlight/taillight, it's all over the show :)

there was even a coupe with a feral front on there last I looked!

r31baboon Apprentice

r31baboon

Posted
Posted

the projectors are an import only headlight

the came on the imports from 1988 i believe or 87.

they are the same shape as the aus series 3 which is the slant one you must be talking about, the square shape you are talking abou tis the australian standard front from series one and series 2 skylines

  • 3 weeks later...
rsx84 Veteran

rsx84

Posted
Posted (edited)

i think the problem is that over the years owners of these cars have made the changes to their liking, you see alot of interest in the import taillights and projectors from the aus sper owners, and i'd say it would have been the same for the Japanese based cars too. interchangeable parts got to love it. you would have to look at the brochure to see the original specs of each model..

My Aus GXE has import projectors and import taillights and turbo centre garnish, i even put in HR31 front seats hehe

Edited by rsx84
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...