Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so I totally know nothing about what im about to ask, and that is why I would like to know everyones oppinion.

My Dad works at repco and some customer and him were talking about my car (Dads proud of his little girls car lol) and dad brought up about the increasing number of thefts of skylines latley. This customer told him that under the bonnet of the car is a green fuse that controls the power to everything and on removal of this the car has no power source to start and thats what they do to keep there car safe!!

So whats the go with this? is it good bad or stupid, does it stuff anything up or dissable things?

:thumbsup: Jasmin.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/182762-anyone-got-any-further-info/
Share on other sites

Most likely true but.. Go for a 3 point alarm immobiliser at the minimum these days. Sadly these shifty characters don't need to start your car to take it, just a tow truck, or tilt tray truck. They smash the steering wheel lock(ignition barrel) and steer the car onto the tilt tray. Bye car.

Full insurance, immobiliser, and watch where you park!

Cheers

Interested to know where this fuse is, pics? so the alarm/immob still works yeah?

i take the that fuse out when i got shops i have full alarm system but can never be too safe :thumbsup: and yes cuts any power to ignition and leaves alarm fully armed!

Ok so its a good idea then?

I doubt someone will load my car on a truck while in a busy shopping centre and at night its asleep in a locked up garage.

If the alarm is still active its even better, Could someone discribe to me where this is and how to do it and all that stuff for myself and others??

:( Thanks guys. Jasmin.

well think about it jasmine... who would expect it?

park your car on the street near rundle mall, some big truck comes along and starts loading your car up, some guy says "Hey what you doing?" and they just say, "towing, its parked illegally." no one would care...

get an alarm..

Edited by Pauly33GTS-t

umm just pointing out that the ppl takin the skylines most prob look on here an now carry a wide rang of fuses for skylines, they took out of the other skylines they stole the other week.

i got few tricks on mine it ant goin no were. straight throw exhaust for the win wakes everyone up, works in favour next doors always come out an look an make sur its me driven. also quick release steering wheel seen couple skylines in the city with em not bad idea ether

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I can get more photos of it here soon and I plan to make a thread detailing the process. I received the car this way and it sorely needs refinishing. That is probably the most appealing photo of it. Up close it is fading, cracked, and needs to be re-glued. Depending on their condition I'm on the fence between refinishing or making a new set.  Another angle hiding the pimples and razor pumps  
    • According to this thread the RS4V with build plate RC40 comes with the R200 diff @ 4.083 ratio as well (mine has said RC40 denotation). We may need to check if the axle stubs are the same pattern as well. The auto subframes have longer axles. However I think yours being a later Series 2 as well, we should have the same bolt pattern for the diff stubs. Unless your upgraded rear also has upgraded axles. Either way, I would not be opposed to pulling the covers to check so I can inspect that  fancy rear core  Also I don't have HICAS. I don't believe that should change things but I hope the people here with heaps more experience than me can correct me if I'm wrong   Let me know if you want to attempt to make this work and I can get some pictures of mine from under the car. 
    • It's not that straightforward. For example I have had this code because my ignitor/power transistor wires were unplugged. It knows something is wrong but has no idea what it means. If you want to actually diagnose this I recommend following the service manual flowchart for code 21. Ohm out the harness, coilpacks, inspect the ECU, etc. And again, it's entirely possible for there to be no problem at all but if you're running a different coilpack it'll trigger the code because it doesn't like what it sees.
    • If it (the code) wasn't still current, it should have gone away by itself by now. No, nothing it 10/10. But it is quite likely. Everything else to do with the ignition could still be responsible (which is wires and connectors). The car is an old piece of shit now, so all the wires and connectors are also old pieces of shit.
    • Lock me in mate, although I'm not sure if I'll be heading up from Goulburn or down from Sydney, either way, return will be back to Goulburn 
×
×
  • Create New...