Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

thats what mine was too...planned on keepin the car for like 6 months till i found something i liked...lol ended up keeping it for 6 years and spend a dick load of cash on it lol. rb25det in R31 FTW! all this talk makes me wanna get another and do the same thing.

  • Replies 73
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thats what mine was too...planned on keepin the car for like 6 months till i found something i liked...lol ended up keeping it for 6 years and spend a dick load of cash on it lol. rb25det in R31 FTW! all this talk makes me wanna get another and do the same thing.

Unfortunately for my wallet, the 25 idea is looking better at this stage then rb20...and you are not helping my wallet by saying "rb25 ftw" either :D

i used a number of diffs...hehe. Maily consisted of auto R31 diffs with 3.899 gears with minispools. i did use a R31 pintara diff which has 4.11 gears but only 25 spline axels and not 28 like the skylines. There are alternatives like the ea-ef xr6 diff centres fit into the borg warner housing. The silhouette LSD's aren't the best but once rebuilt they are pretty good. i went though about 4 diffs in about 3 years, my driving style wasn't the most friendliest tho.

Iv been told the same about the pintara diffs. I might just keep my auto diff and weld it up at first and have some fun with that. What brakes did you use i was going to go with the z31 set up but not sure if regency will like that so might have to go with the jep spec brakes.

im really stuck between rb20 and 25...which 1 should i do for a daily car (taking petrol into account). Would the 25 eat up lot more petrol with same mods/boost/driving style as rb20?

Not to mention the rb20 u can pick up for a lot less then rb25...

RB25 is not going to much worse for fuel than an rb20. It still comes down to how hard you drive it.

The RB20 might seem like a cheaper option now, but when you start modding it (don't lie you will) you will have to spend more money just to get what the RB25 will get for a lot less money.

Also the RB20 relies a lot on the turbo to get its power, but the RB25 will have low down torque to get everything moving.

As above^^ and the price difference isnt really that much if you shop around a little and considering the power torque gains.....although for reliability Ild choose rb20det :PBJ:

Ryan

Ive seen some very different prices... What is a reasonable price for an rb20 and rb25 package (engine,manual box,ecu loom etc) ?

I just need a rough idea...

There is a full engine package (no gearbox) series 2 RB25DET at D1 Garage for $2400. If you want to save some more money you can put an RB20 box behind the RB25DET and just play a little nicer than you would an RB25 box.

If your buying an RB25DET though you need to factor in a head gasket before you put the engine in and consider that part of buying a 25, its cheaper to have the headgasket put in before you have the engine in the car. Send ISC a PM he has Trust/Greddy Head Gaskets.

There is a full engine package (no gearbox) series 2 RB25DET at D1 Garage for $2400. If you want to save some more money you can put an RB20 box behind the RB25DET and just play a little nicer than you would an RB25 box.

If your buying an RB25DET though you need to factor in a head gasket before you put the engine in and consider that part of buying a 25, its cheaper to have the headgasket put in before you have the engine in the car. Send ISC a PM he has Trust/Greddy Head Gaskets.

lol...no way in hell am i putting a 20 box on a 25. Why ? Because i know its waste of money and wouldnt last me long at all (daily thrasher remeber)

Whichever engine i go, ill try and get a 25 box.

It was just a suggestion if your doing it on a budget, thats all. Good to hear you are going to do it right the first time. :)

Sorry now that i read what i wrote, it sounds a bit rude. Apologies.

I was just trying to enphasise how much i hate the 20 box :D especially on a 25 motor.

Also, do any of your guys know which series front do the projector headlights fit straight into ? Series 3 ?

i daily thrashed my rb25det....it was fine on fuel. I was hummin and harrin when i did my conversion...and dam am i glad i went for the 25...so much more bang for your buck...drove a few 31's with 20s in them and not as fun. 25's are great all round motors. younger, torquer and more responsive to mods etc. If i granny my 25 it gets around 450-475 outta a tank. no disrespect to 20's (great motor and all) but youll regret it.

i daily thrashed my rb25det....it was fine on fuel. I was hummin and harrin when i did my conversion...and dam am i glad i went for the 25...so much more bang for your buck...drove a few 31's with 20s in them and not as fun. 25's are great all round motors. younger, torquer and more responsive to mods etc. If i granny my 25 it gets around 450-475 outta a tank. no disrespect to 20's (great motor and all) but youll regret it.

25ftw! lol. Just replace the head gasket and drop it in with a full zorst and fmic and im set ;)...until new ful pump/injectors, bigger turbo...5 stud...rims.............i hate cars. too much money lol

edit: did i mention that if i do this...this 31 would have the loudest mofo. flutter :thumbsup:

Edited by KISIN

think about it...for 10psi, fmic, and a zorst you come close to 200rwkw with a rb25det. By the sounds of things your on a budget so you wont be lookin at too much boost in the near future so why bother changing the head gasket...Its not a big deal to pull the head off and wack a new head gasket while its in the car later on. i can't emphasis how much i KAINed the crap outta my first rb25det...for 4 years it had a consistant 200-205rwkw. never missed a beat. ever! stock head gasket. Im not sayin it not necessary.

im not trying to sound negative :yes: just trying to save ya time and money

Edited by Ryanrb25
think about it...for 10psi, fmic, and a zorst you come close to 200rwkw with a rb25det. By the sounds of things your on a budget so you wont be lookin at too much boost in the near future so why bother changing the head gasket...Its not a big deal to pull the head off and wack a new head gasket while its in the car later on. i can't emphasis how much i KAINed the crap outta my first rb25det...for 4 years it had a consistant 200-205rwkw. never missed a beat. ever! stock head gasket. Im not sayin it not necessary.

im not trying to sound negative :) just trying to save ya time and money

Much appreciated :yes:

Its good to actually hear from someone with past experiences, then to sum1 crapping on what their friend of a friend of a friend said.

Also, my neighbour has a blue 31 and a white r31 s3 parked in front of his house...you on here ?? I want your white r31 lol....might have to walk down to his house and check it out :P

Edited by KISIN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...