Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb20 Plenum

orb4me

By orb4me,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

orb4me Apprentice

orb4me

Posted
Posted (edited)

hey guys,tried lookin up info for 20's but not much came up,all 25 and 26 stuff.anyway. im wanting to know if anyone has seen the results good/bad from modifying the throttle position of a standard plenum to a forward facing one.i know its not designed to have intake on side but wondering if any side affects have been found (leans out cylinders etc.) and if cost worthy of modification.

or if anyone knows of a place to buy a good aftermarket one for 20's that would also be helpfull.

thanks.

Edited by orb4me
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183057-rb20-plenum/
Share on other sites
MADGT4 Mentor

MADGT4

Posted
Posted

Pretty sure there is a guy selling a RB26 one modded to fit an RB20.

IMO they look better than any after market job available.

EIther way though, Nissan engineers did a good job with whats on there. Unless your pushing over 300rwkw there is no need to change it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183057-rb20-plenum/#findComment-3319596
Share on other sites
abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted (edited)

I actually read about RB26 plenums on RB20s a while ago now, but its still applicable.

Dyno tests where done prior to removing the standard RB20 plenum, and it was replaced with an RB26 plenum.

After the plenum install it was re-dynoed and the car actually made less power/torque and was less responsive. Did anyone else read this article? I think it was in HPI magazine.

There is nothing wrong with the stock RB20 plenum I have to say, but I can see where your coming from if your issue is the fact that the piping has to run over the engine. I find that annoying when you want to change spart plugs, but thats about it.

If thats the issue then I dont think its worth the trouble to make it/or get a front facing plenum.

If your issue is the length of the piping, then dont even bother. The way its setup is fine, and dont think you will get much better results with shorter piping.

Just my thoughts..

Edited by abu
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183057-rb20-plenum/#findComment-3319639
Share on other sites
abu Grand Master

abu

Posted
Posted
ive seen modded rb20 eccs plenums like you described. i think there is a guy selling them on VL turbo forum. my two cents is they look shit. just save and get somthing designed to flow from the side and not lean out cylenders.

His names LEIGH (DUZ360).

I think there around $600 delivered. He is also on SAU I'm pretty sure.

Yep, stock looks fine I reckon, a lot of after market stuff looks shit.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183057-rb20-plenum/#findComment-3320278
Share on other sites
orb4me Apprentice

orb4me

Posted
  • Author
Posted
first question is why do you want to do it?

just to remove an extra 50cm of piping?

reason y is cause its in a 180sx,i got after market bonnet which i don't wanna chop into as its ADR compliant and crap all room to keep it as a crossover design and they do look better facing forward... thanks for all the feed back.i thort they would lean out. i have read the same article on the 26 manifold,main reason for power diff and torque is due to the runner length,id like to get one that bolts onto and uses bottom half of standard manifold to avoid that.trouble is finding one,id pay good money for good stuff, just going through the options, ill check out links given so hope they will help. thank you all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/183057-rb20-plenum/#findComment-3321652
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Powder coat on mating surface

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      Remove it. Certainly from the hub face. I'm not in love with leaving it on the wheel assembly surface either - but if it is common to do so, then....maybe fair enough. It's not difficult. Just time consuming. For the hub face you just need a large enough block and suitable grades of abrasive paper to get it off flat. The same would be true of the assembly face. Just more time consuming, probably needing a lot more care. It's defo going to be easier just to assemble the wheels as is, seal them up, and check them periodically to see if there's any movement or loosening of the fasteners, than it will be to remove it though.
    • dyl33
      Powder coat on mating surface

      By dyl33 路 Posted

      Hello, I got my wheels powder coated and they've powder coated bloody everything the mating surface and hub (even told them not to lol) anyway should I leave it or remove it. (Would be very hard) I've searched a lot and lots of powder coaters don't mask the mating surface but do mask the hub surface. How bad it powder coat on the mating surface or hub? My question is what should I do?
    • dbm7
      R34 Gt Auto Tuning

      By dbm7 路 Posted

      Yeah, R34 with RB25DE likely has a 4AX01 box in it, which is a medium duty auto ~ with the RB25DET mill, it would've been fitted with 4AX00 (4AX13) heavy duty build (same case, different internals). An RB25DET will lunch on a medium duty 4R01 auto in pretty short order ...to give you some visual idea of differences between the 'medium' and 'heavy duty' boxes, you only have to look at the 2/4 band for comparison...it's chalk and cheese...(plus bigger high clutch, extra pinion in the planetary sets, higher oil pump output, different bearings, higher TC stall speed )... You can control them with just about any aftermarket TCU for electric-over 4-speed with TC lockup clutch (ie; the GM 4L60E and others)...I have a custom standalone TCU that includes MAP sensor (for turbo applications) along with TPS, RPM, and line pressure monitoring...in other words, I don't use any ECU signals...no real need to.
    • GTR ZOAH
      S A U N S W Club Membership

      By GTR ZOAH 路 Posted

      Welcome 馃槈
    • Kinkstaah
      R34 Gt Auto Tuning

      By Kinkstaah 路 Posted

      If you want to do the wiring, the GTT engine ecu has the same pinouts extra that the seperate TCM in the NA car has. You can literally grab the wires/pins that lead into the Seperate TCM and wire them into the corresponding pins in the GTT Engine ECU. You could then in theory Nistune it. I realised this when everyone put it in the too hard basket and I actually looked at the f**kin R34 manual. This is after I had previously had a seperate aftermarket TCM controller in my original N/A chassis car and a very built gearbox from a GTT, running a seperate Haltech engine ECU. I ran into this issue when I re-shelled the car into a GTT shell, so my aftermarket TCM was no longer plug and play, because the loom/modules were not present. I was pretty livid when realizing just how simple the original fix actually was. It sat for 3+ years at various workshops trying to find a solution. In practice none of this is a worthwhile idea for a lot of reasons, generally surrounding the shitness of the NA auto, the autos in general that come with skylines, and the NA engine and lack of gains. The gearbox is specced for the 2.5L N/A and barely at that level. If you have to pay anyone any money to do any of this, that is money spent on manualizing the car and it's not even close in terms of a comparison. Learning to drive manual is simpler than going through the pain of dealing with the N/A gearbox and he'll have fun to boot.
脳
脳
  • Create New...